Food & Fragrance: 176 posts

As the weather cools, my tea shelf changes character. The delicate greens of summer give way to darker, more contemplative leaves—Pu’er, Liubao, and smoked black teas. Recently, I discovered Teayucafe, an artisanal Chinese tea house founded by Michael Laing, whose family has grown tea for generations in Guangxi. His collection of teas captures that same shift in mood—from brightness to depth, from freshness to warmth.

When Michael wrote to introduce his work, I was drawn to his story. He grew up in Wuzhou, Guangxi, the birthplace of Liubao dark tea, a region where tea is not merely a drink but a way of life. His goal with Teayucafe is to share the joy of authentic Chinese teas with the world, at affordable prices. “Even in China, opportunities to drink truly high-quality tea are rare,” he told me. “I hope our website can serve as a window—a way for people everywhere to experience these flavors.”

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I used to look down on flavored teas. If tea is of high quality, why add anything else to it, I thought. Then, I reconsidered my prejudices, because it turned out that a well-crafted flavored tea could be a thing of beauty. Additional aromas highlight the complex flavor of Camellia sinesis leaves, revealing different nuances. A hint of osmanthus, for instance, can make certain types of oolongs seem sweeter, while rose softens the smoky edges of black teas. It makes for a different but no less enjoyable experience than drinking a cup of unadorned grand cru blend.

Some of the most interesting combinations are of tea and flowers. Scent science explains why such pairings have become classics– tea leaves and blossoms like rose, osmanthus, gardenia or violet share a number of fragrant compounds in common. When blended, the complementary aromas create affinities that enrich the flavor of tea as well as its fragrance.

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Syrnyky is a dish I order anytime I see it on the menu. Traveling around Ukraine, I ate these small fried cheesecakes at canteens in Odesa, diners in Kherson or fancy restaurants in Lviv and they have always been satisfying. In Kyiv, a restaurant chain called Puzata Hata, “pot-bellied hut,” has a wonderful oven-baked version of this popular treat. Syrnyky can be a great breakfast option or a luscious dessert, depending on what toppings you choose. Whatever way they are served, this dish is the ultimate comfort food.

Syrnyky are made from a fresh cheese called syr in Ukrainian. It’s a type of farmer’s cheese, with small, fairly dry curds and a sour flavor reminiscent of yogurt. The closest substitute is any soft white cheese, like tvorog, twaróg, quark, or even well-drained cottage cheese. Since the flavor of syrnyky is dominated by cheese, with flour being used merely as a binder, pick your favorite variety.  

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My travels in Pakistan started in Sindh, the third-largest province of the country. The ancient Persians referred to the land east of the river Indus as hind and the word Sindh was their variation on the Sanskrit, Sindhu, meaning ‘river.’ Wherever you are in Sindh, you’re conscious of the great river that still defines the place, its geography and mindset. I would follow the Indus throughout Sindh, and when I finally deviated from its course, I missed the river and its mighty presence. It cast its spell on me as surely as it did on Alexander the Great who conquered Sindh in 325 BCE and referred to the river as Indós.

I miss many things from Sindh besides the river: the friendly disposition of its people, the stunning historical sites that make ancient Greek ruins seem modern, the bejeweled shrines, the sandstone temples. I also missed Sindhi flavors, the unique combination that reminded me more of refined Persian cuisine than the earthy flavors of the neighboring Punjab.

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It’s almost the sakura season here in Brussels. While sakura blossoms don’t have much fragrance, their petals and leaves contain coumarin, which smells wonderfully of toasted almonds. When the leaves or petals are lightly crushed, you can smell this delicate scent, but it becomes much more pronounced once the flowers and leaves are salted. Drying concentrates the coumarin content and makes its aroma more prominent.

In Japan, salted sakura blossoms are used for various desserts, but I especially like them in tea. The leaves can be used when steaming or roasting fish to lend it an almond scent and I also use them in marinated cucumber salads. You can find great ideas on using salted sakura via Just One Cookbook, a great source for Japanese recipes.

Most Japanese stores, in brick and mortar and online, carry salted sakura flowers and leaves all year round, but if you have a sakura or a sour cherry tree, you can make them yourself. In Japan, Oshimazakura is preferred for its leaves, while Yaezakura for flowers, which are full and have many petals. However, you can experiment with any cherry variety you have in your garden.

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