Classical Challenge
“I have no luck with classical perfumes,” confessed a friend. “My grandmother wore Jean Patou Joy, my mother loved Chanel No. 5, but when I wear these fragrances, I feel like I’m playing dress up.” She wondered why she completely missed the allure of fragrances widely considered iconic. It is easy to attribute it to personal tastes and associations, but I decided to embark on a classical challenge.
The French use the phrase “grand parfum” to describe fragrances that not only have symphonic complexity but also a distinguished heritage. Chanel No. 5 is a quintessential example—created in a remarkable collaboration between Coco Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux, it revolutionized the ‘20s with its daring blend of aldehydes, manmade materials that smell starchy and metallic, and opulent floral essences. It is voluptuous, rich and heady. Today, on the other hand, we are no longer used to the strong burst of aldehydes, and the curves in perfumes—as on Hollywood actresses—are toned down.
Anne-Marie in Perfumes with the Best Sillage (and how to figure it out): Thank you Victoria to telling that test. I think Potrait of a Lady is my sillage monster scent. I remember very well those 80′ and 90′ huge sillage parfums. I… January 22, 2021 at 7:38pm