Rose: 140 posts

Parfums de Rosine Le Magnolia de Rosine : Fragrance Review

33333

The best rendition of magnolia I’ve tried was Pierre Bourdon’s Sous Les Magnolias from his eponymous perfume line. It had the lemony ice cream richness of the southern flower, but instead of rendering it photorealistically and flatly, Bourdon structured the fragrance around a mossy-earthy chypre accord. It was a genius decision. Unfortunately, Sous Les Magnolias can be hard to find.

When I read about Les Parfums de Rosine offering Magnolia signed by Bourdon, I assumed that it would be close to his own magnolia.

Continue reading →

Dior Joy : Perfume Review

22222

Louis Vuitton has done it. It managed to buy a stake in the venerable house of Jean Patou and to add it to its impressive collection of brands. It announced reviving the Jean Patou fashion line and promised many exciting developments. The first one arrived and I’m not holding my breath for the subsequent ones. Dior launched a perfume called Joy. Why let such a brilliant name languish on an old-fashioned perfume when it can grace a modern, pink-tinted juice?

The press release was ecstatic. “Grasse Rose, in both Essence and Absolute form, as well as heady Jasmine, blend with these delectable fruits [bergamot and mandarin] in a vibrant smile. Warm and creamy sandalwood embraces us in softness.” That Dior needs to hire a good copywriter is obvious, but even more so the fact that besides the name, Dior also took the main idea of Jean Patou’s Joy, rose and jasmine. What would be the result, I wondered?

Continue reading →

Guerlain Mon Guerlain : Perfume Review

33333

It’s easy to be dismissive of a perfume like Mon Guerlain. It checks off all of the contemporary cliches–fruity-floral, sweet, and pretty. One can almost guess what it would smell like by looking at its adorable pink bottle. And it first, Mon Guerlain indeed smells predictable, a fruit compote accented with citrus and spiced with patchouli. Yet, in perfume, as in life, it pays to be open-minded.

Those who are willing to give Mon Guerlain a chance will find an upbeat, easy to wear fragrance with a solid Guerlinade imprint. How it gets there is the most interesting part.

Continue reading →

Bulgarian Rose Perfume : Under $5

33333

The Rose Valley in central Bulgaria holds some of the largest rose plantations in the world. The essence produced in Bulgaria has a zesty accent, which contrasts with the lush honeyed sweetness typical of rose oils. It’s the rose of Jean Patou Joy, Chanel Coco, Coty Chypre, Hermès Amazone, and Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’Eau. It’s complex, lush and sparkling.

The carved wooden vials of Bulgarian rose oil have been a familiar sight to me ever since I was a child. I found them tucked in my grandmother’s purse, and I loved how a tiny drop was enough to leave a rose-perfumed trail. When I started working in the fragrance industry, I’d occasionally receive rose oil samples in these vials, and they would invariably make me nostalgic. I promised myself that one day I’d go to Bulgaria and tour the Rose Valley.

Continue reading →

The Different Company Kashan Rose : Perfume Review

33333

Our recent talk about Mughal empresses, attars and roses reminded me of a perfume I’ve been meaning to review, but it somehow slipped my mind. I mentioned The Different Company’s Kâshân Rose for my FT article about the rose capital of Iran, The Roses of Kashan, but the perfume deserves more attention.

To be fair, it’s not the be-all and end-all of rose perfumes. Kâshân Rose is a bright, transparent composition that seems uncomplicated and linear. Leave the complex stories and intricate turns to the grand roses like Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady, Guerlain Nahema or Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin. Kâshân Rose is about sunlight and pink petals.

Continue reading →

From the Archives

Latest Comments

  • Jodee in Scented Orchids : A Kaleidoscope of Perfume: Hi Andy, Fascinating article. Do your orchids ever drop their flowers and stop producing? I would love to try growing orchids, but it always seems that when I buy a… February 16, 2019 at 3:41pm

  • Silvermoon in Scented Orchids : A Kaleidoscope of Perfume: Hello Andy, really enjoyed the article. It reminded me of when I visited the Hortus Botanicus in the university of Leiden in the Netherlands. A fantastic botanical garden with beautiful… February 16, 2019 at 3:21pm

  • Andy in Scented Orchids : A Kaleidoscope of Perfume: Since the visit I wrote about here, my local botanical garden in Pennsylvania has greatly expanded its orchid collection. It is always an inspiration! February 16, 2019 at 11:12am

  • Andy in Scented Orchids : A Kaleidoscope of Perfume: If you ever have a chance to visit a specialty orchid grower or botanical garden with a collection of orchids, take some time to smell the flowers. The variety of… February 16, 2019 at 10:56am

Latest Tweets

Design by cre8d
© Copyright 2005-2019 Bois de Jasmin. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy