How To Guides: 78 posts

If you’ve donated and didn’t receive your Zoom invitation, please contact me and I will resend your invite.

Join Luca Turin and me for a live online seminar on new perfume launches, industry trends, and insider observations from the fragrance world. Luca will be joining us from Milan during Esxence, the world’s largest niche perfumery exhibition. I will be speaking from Ukraine.

Scientist, critic, polymath, and co-author of Perfumes: The A–Z Guide, Luca needs little introduction. Expect lively discussion, strong opinions, and plenty of opportunities for questions.

This event supports a cause close to my heart.

Since this spring, I have been working with the Kramatorsk Volunteer Organization in eastern Ukraine, helping evacuate civilians from frontline communities. The team is made up entirely of local volunteers. They receive no salary. Their leader, Bogdan Zuyakov, works at a local music school and spends his free time organizing evacuations, transporting hospital patients, and helping people escape the war zone.

I join the team’s missions whenever I am in Kramatorsk, and I have seen firsthand how vital this work is. As the front advances and drone warfare expands the danger zone, the window for evacuation is shrinking.

Unfortunately, one of the team’s vehicles recently broke down. Without vehicles, evacuations stop.

Together with my fellow volunteer Ben Kochenburger, we have already raised more than $10,300. We are now just $4,700 away from our goal of $15,000, which will allow us to purchase a replacement vehicle and keep these missions running.

Spend an hour talking perfume with Luca Turin—and help keep a lifesaving evacuation vehicle on the road.

Event Details

Friday, June 5
17:00–18:00 CET
11:00–12:00 EST
Zoom

How to Participate

Donate $50 or more to the fundraiser: https://gogetfunding.com/humanitarian-support-for-relocating-civilians-in-ukraine/

Everyone who has already donated $50 or more is automatically eligible and will receive a Zoom invitation before the event. Be sure that you enter your email address, so that we can contact you.

A recording will be made available to the registered participants.

If you are unable to contribute, sharing this post would be a tremendous help.

It’s not every day that a conversation about perfume helps to save lives.

Luca’s Substack: https://lucaturin.substack.com/

You can follow the reports of my work with the Kramatorks Volunteer Organization via my Substack or Instagram.

My Favorite Autumn Fragrances (Ukrainian)

Lately, I’ve been finding it difficult to sleep. The news from Ukraine is overwhelming, and it’s painful to experience this war from the outside, knowing that my family and friends are living through it every day. For now, my obligations keep me here, and I have to find ways to keep myself going.

Perfume has always been a source of joy for me, but in recent weeks I’ve leaned on it even more consciously. Ever since studying the effects of scents on mood and cognition, I’ve noticed how much a small ritual can change the texture of a day. Choosing a perfume, putting it on slowly, pausing to inhale it—it may take only seconds, but done with intention, it becomes a grounding act. In autumn, when the days grow shorter and the light fades too quickly, these moments are especially precious.

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Summer is the season of movement. As many of us travel, whether across countries or just to the next neighborhood, I’d like to offer a different way to mark the journey: not with photos or souvenirs, but with scent.

For years, I’ve made it a habit to map a place by its smells. This practice has changed how I travel. It slows me down. It sharpens my attention. And later, when memory fades, recalling scents brings everything back with astonishing clarity. I only have to imagine the honeyed aroma of orange blossoms to transport myself to Marrakesh. This memory then pulls on another one, and I delve into the fragrances of sun-warmed clay in a small oasis town, stone-roasted bread, and effervescent Moroccan cumin. In my mind, I travel again, going further and further.

Scent is the most ephemeral souvenir, but also the most faithful. Here’s how to begin building your own olfactory map.

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Oud is a paradox. The exquisite aroma that set the imagination of Japanese poets and Sufi mystics aflame develops as a result of a disease. When healthy, the wood of Aquilaria tree species is odorless, but once a certain type of mold affects them, they release an aromatic essence to protect their tissues from decomposition. It’s a slow process, during which blond wood turns dark and hard as a stone and develops a fragrance of uncommon complexity. It has the notes of sweet tobacco, incense, leather, and smoked spices, with a lingering undercurrent of bitter honey and crushed mint. While it’s known by many names, including aloeswood, agarwood, gaharu, or jinko, its other name, dark gold, will be instantly recognizable to oud lovers.

Although an ingredient with centuries old history in the Eastern world, it’s a relative newcomer to European perfumery. One of the first fragrances to use this note was Yves Saint Laurent’s M7, created under the direction of Tom Ford in 2002. The composition—its dramatic effect enhanced by a controversial nude male ad–had a cool, herbal top note that fell straight into the tobacco and animalic warmth of oud. It was relaunched a few years ago as M7 Oud Absolu, softer and lighter, but with the original’s vivid character.

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“What perfumes do men like?” is one of the most common questions I am asked, followed closely by “What perfumes will make women fall for me?” For both I have the same reply: each to his or her own, and instead of bothering to entice others with our perfume – a task of rather dubious merits – why not seduce ourselves instead?

Selecting perfume, however, can be tremendously complicated. The market is full of new launches, each making lofty promises, but with many smelling almost identical. There are also considerations of brand, packaging and marketing that influence us more than we are willing to admit, even to the point of obscuring our real preferences. And then there is the problem of the sheer volume of choices.

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