Few perfumers navigate the intersection of creativity and technical prowess as deftly as Dominique Ropion. His track record reads like a résumé designed to impress even the most jaded observer: Dior Dune, Givenchy Amarige, Thierry Mugler Alien and Lancôme La Vie est Belle. I had the privilege of working with Ropion at IFF, where I discovered not only his brilliance but also his generosity as a teacher. Which, of course, makes me a suspiciously biased judge. And yet, years spent smelling everything from the sublime to the regrettable have, I hope, earned me a modicum of distance.

All the same, I couldn’t resist a visit to 27 Rue Marbeuf on a recent trip to Paris, where the Aphorismes by Dominique Ropion boutique gleams like a Fabergé egg in its display case. Ropion has partnered with Habib Al-Sowaidi, founder of Le Royaume du Parfum International, a company known for developing gilded concepts and equally gilded packaging. Judging by the boutique’s hyper-luxurious décor and the prevalence of oud and creamy musks in the collection, the aesthetic here leans toward a particular idea of opulence—call it “majlis meets Place Vendôme.”

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Bois de Jasmin new class schedule is now available for late June and early July. This will be the last session before my summer vacation. The new online schedule include 4 new classes on Vetiver, Balsamic Notes, Musk and Japanese Incense. We will decode these fundamental perfume materials and analyze fragrances that use them. I will give you different smelling exercises to learn nuances of these aromas and guide you on selecting perfumes that use them to the best advantage. The topic of Japanese incense is something I feel passionate about, and I look forward to initiating you to this rich, vibrant world. We will also learn about Jasmine, Tuberose and Incense.

Those who will visit me in my Brussels studio will have a chance to smell through the iconic fragrances of the 20th century in their original compositions. This session also includes a class on Rose–we will smell legendary rose perfumes, rose materials that I have sourced from all over the world and learn to make a rose accord.

The class size is small to ensure that everyone gets attention and a chance to interact. The class is run as a lecture interspersed with guided smelling exercises. My style of teaching is personal and interactive. You will have a chance to ask question throughout the class and there will also be an allotted time at the end for your questions on any fragrance-related topics. These classes are for students of all levels of interest in perfumery.

To register for the online courses, please go to the Online Perfume Classes page or take a look below:

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Jasmine
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: June 22nd, Saturday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Tuberose
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: June 23rd, Sunday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Incense
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: June 29th, Saturday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

3-Class Package: Jasmine, Tuberose, Incense
Price: €155 Book Now / $168 Book Now

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Vetiver
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: July 6th, Saturday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Balsamic Notes
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: July 10th, Wednesday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Musk
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: July 13th, Saturday, 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

3-Class Package: Vetiver, Balsams, Musk
Price: €155 Book Now / $168 Book Now

Perfume Seminar Online: Japanese Incense

A seminar that delves deep into the fascinating story of Japanese incense. I will also share my favorite brands of Japanese incense and links to the online stores where they can be purchased.

Location: Online, Zoom
Date: July 14th, Sunday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
Price: €55 Book Now / $60 Book Now

Brussels Studio Classes

We will explore perfume materials, rare fragrances, talk about history and legendary creators who made our favorite perfumes. Together we will learn the evolution of perfume history by studying some of the most iconic examples of the perfumery art in their original formulations. You will also perform exercises to sharpen their sense of smell. Some of the workshops include creating your own perfume accord.

Perfume Workshop (Brussels Studio): Vintage Perfumes and Stories

This seminar will give you a rare chance to smell legendary perfumes in their original formulations. You will have access to my perfume collection and try iconic fragrances from Caron, Guerlain, Coty and Chanel. You will also explore some of the best materials used by fragrance industry professionals and discover why your nose is more sensitive than the most sophisticated machine.

Class location: Brussels
Class duration: 2.5 hours
200€/per person   (50€ to be paid as a reservation deposit, the rest is payable in person on the day of the class)

Date: June 16th, Sunday, 12-2:30pm SOLD OUT

Date: June 23rd, Sunday, 12-2:30pm Reserve Now

Date: July 7th, Sunday, 12-2:30pm Reserve Now

Perfume Workshop (Brussels Studio): Rose
We will smell natural and synthetic rose materials, vintage and modern fragrances that use rose. I will then show you how a classical rose accord is constructed. You will have a chance to create your own rose composition.

Class location: Brussels
Class duration: 2.5 hours
200€/per person   (50€ to be paid as a reservation deposit, the rest is payable in person on the day of the class)

Date: June 30th, Sunday, 12-2:30pm Reserve Now

Date: July 14th, Sunday, 12-2:30pm Reserve Now

To request another date, please  email me.

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As I was updating my ISIPCA course and preparing my new spring seminars, I tried a selection of new launches, some of which seemed interesting enough to share with you in a separate article. While new launches are almost always skewed towards Christmas sales, I like the spring offer because it tends to show a greater variety of compositions. There will still be a wave of summer flankers and sports colognes, but for now, we have many radiant florals, soft chypres and salty vetivers.

Dries Van Noten Mystic Moss (perfumer Nicolas Bonneville)

An elegant composition centered on vetiver, with a strong salty, seaweed facet. Imagine driftwood on the beach. An effervescent combination of cardamom and mandarin lends it brightness that lasts even when the darker woods take over.

Guerlan Rose Amira (perfumer Delphine Jelk)

A Persian-style rose perfume where roses are liberally layered with incense and dark woods. If you like your roses smoky and mysterious, this is the right fragrance for you. It features a natural rose note, which is splendidly warm and honeyed. While Rose Amira is currently a duty-free exclusive, it will be distributed more widely later this spring.

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I’m always reluctant to sum up the year, especially one as complicated as 2023. We all read the news and we know that the world is in a terrible place right now. For our part, we can only do so much to change the course of events, and as we strive to contribute something positive, we also need to take care of ourselves and our families. My goal this year has been to find ways to cope and to maintain my hope and my faith in humanity. And yet whenever I would become despondent, something wonderful would happen–a warm letter from a reader would arrive, a friend would send a small gift, my cousin from Ukraine would call with some good news (for a change), or family would come for a visit.

As busy as I was with my book presentations and my projects related to Ukraine, I tried to find moments to read, explore new scents and learn something new. Joining the ISIPCA faculty this semester also gave me a chance to smell more perfumes and to update my knowledge of the fragrance market. It’s a pleasure to share these discoveries with you. As always, I look forward to hearing about your 2023 favorites, be they scents, books or other beautiful things.

Scents

Thomas de Monaco Eau Coeur

An exquisite combination of osmanthus and magnolia. Elegant, refined, but not to the extent that it smells too cold and stylized. The floral vignette is underscored by musk and woods, and the finish is just as luminous as the start.

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For those who like lists and rankings, I have a little treat today courtesy of the Cosmetify Index, a service that ranks the most searched for and followed beauty brands around the world. The Cosmetify Index was created in 2019 to see how brands engage with social media and also how consumers respond to new launches. The newest index tracked searches and engagement in 2020, assessing the impact of the pandemic on beauty and fragrance sales.

The Cosmetify Index also tracks which brands are popular in which country, so you can glean fascinating information like Russia being a Jo Malone country, while China favors Estée Lauder. Yves Rocher rules in France, Italy, and Spain, while Rituals holds court in Germany, Scandinavian countries, and unexpectedly, Angola and Bhutan. The Indian subcontinent is united in its love for The Body Shop, although Nepal prefers Dove. And so on. Of course, these are the macrotrends and generalizations, but all trend reports are bird’s-eye-view snapshots.

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