1930s perfumes: 2 posts

Schiaparelli Shocking : Vintage and Modern Perfume Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The Muse

Elsa Schiaparelli was a designer who set lasting trends in fashion with her richly embroidered jackets, shoe shaped hats and lobster dresses, but I discovered her whimsical side through Shocking, a perfume she released in 1937. Shocking was a dazzling collaboration between Schiap, as she was known, Jean Carles, who created the perfume, and the Surrealist artists Marcel Vertes and Salvador Dali through whose drawings the sultry fragrance came to life.

This month, the Metropolitan Museum in New York opened the exhibit “Schiaparelli & Prada, Impossible Conversations.” Running until August 19th, the collection explores the work of two designers in a compare-and-contrast setting. It was the first time I’ve seen Schiaparelli’s work close up, and I was mesmerized. The clothes weren’t simply beautiful; they offered a glimpse into the designer’s vibrant imagination.

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Guerlain Vol de Nuit : Perfume Review (New and Vintage)

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A gem of Guerlain’s classical collection, Vol de Nuit is a miniature universe. Smelling it, I am transported to a wood-paneled library. The gilded leather bound books, the honeyed scent of beeswax candles and the warmth of the fire are evoked by its balsamic and leathery notes. The baroque oriental base of Vol de Nuit cradles a luminous orange blossom and narcissus.

Vdn

Perfumer Jacques Guerlain created Vol de Nuit, “night flight”, in 1933 as an homage to the brave aviators of the 1920s. The French company Aéropostale was one of the first operations to fly the mail from continent to continent. The chief pilot of Aéropostale’s operations was Antoine de St. Exupéry. After serving as a French combat pilot during World War I, he wrote several books, among them Wind, Sand and Stars, Night Flight and The Little Prince. He disappeared during World War II while flying a reconnaissance mission in 1944. Vol de Nuit was named after a novel by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The bottle is emblazoned with the shape of French Air Force wings and has a dark amber color.

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Latest Comments

  • Shan in Sweet Citrus Perfumes: Mandarins: The most recent mandarin note I’ve tried is quite literal in Byredo’s Tobacco Mandarin – its very beautiful to me but its so literal that the price point makes me… January 18, 2025 at 1:15am

  • rickyrebarco in Sweet Citrus Perfumes: Mandarins: I like Laboratorio Olfattivo’s citrus trio by Jean-Claude Ellena, Mandarino, Bergamotto and Pomelo. My favorite is the tart mandarin. January 17, 2025 at 10:44pm

  • Nina Zolotow in Sweet Citrus Perfumes: Mandarins: For some reason, my skin doesn’t like most citrus scents–they go sour. But the way you’ve described the mandarine ones as more floral I think that might work better for… January 17, 2025 at 1:10pm

  • Alityke in Sweet Citrus Perfumes: Mandarins: I miss the weirdness of Luten’s ode to mandarin & celery, Mandarin Mandarine. A richly woven silken tapestry of citrus, salty green celery & typical Luten’s spices. Gorgeous but truly… January 17, 2025 at 12:50pm

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