noir is the new black: 23 posts

“Why does all I do become Byzantine?” mused Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The silhouettes of her garments might have been streamlined and paired down, but the embellishments would be sumptuous: baroque jewels, ornate camellias, richly textured embroideries. Byzantine may not be the first association with Chanel fragrances, which tend to be polished and understated. Yet, if you look closer, you will find plenty of intricate details that make each perfume memorable: the luscious ylang-ylang of No 5, the smoky incense of No 22 or even the vivid technicolor jasmine of Coco Mademoiselle. Coco Noir, the latest addition to Chanel’s collection, promises to take Byzantine a notch further.

With Venetian fabrics and colors inspiring perfumer Jacques Polge, how can Coco Noir be anything but Byzantine! In order to weave his perfume story, Polge looked to the time Coco Chanel spent in Venice in 1919. She fell in love with the city, which she visited in an attempt to ease the pain of the sudden death of her lover, Boy Capel. The exquisite beauty of Venice seduces her and its Byzanthine influences stayed with Chanel for the rest of her life.

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More Noir perfumes for fall. Agent Provocateur will release a new fragrance called Pétale Noir in October 2012. The concept behind the fragrance is a hidden dark secret.  Pétale Noir is a floral oriental perfume, which includes notes of water lily, violet leaves, hyacinth, magnolia, rose absolute, ylang ylang, neroli, heliotrope, osmanthus, ginger, tobacco leaf, amber, and leather.

A body elixir will be launched alongside the perfume, “promising aphrodisiac properties and a tingly feeling on the skin.” Via theupcoming

“Why does all I do become byzantine?” — Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Chanel is launching a new fragrance Coco Noir in September 2012. The fragrance was inspired by the time Coco Chanel spent in Venice, and the idea of Venetian velvet is a recurring motif. A variation on Coco, an opulent floral oriental, Coco Noir was created by Jacques Polge. The notes include Calabrian bergamot, grapefruit, rose, jasmine, narcissus, geranium, tonka bean, Indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, incense, and  white musk.

It will be available at selected stores starting August 15th and worldwide in September. Please see more about the launch and available sizes at Nowsmellthis. Via theharlow.net

There is something captivating about darkness. It conceals, it frightens, it beguiles. In perfumery, dark notes like smoky woods, balsams and leather can give a new dimension to familiar impressions. Nowhere is this more obvious than with rose. Infuse the rose accord with patchouli and amber and the composition suddenly smolders, taking the rose out of the conventional prim and pretty territory. Instead, the sensuality of dark rose blends evokes a film noir set with a brooding femme fatale in the leading role.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The new Armani Privé Cuir Noir, a fragrance from La Collection des Mille et une Nuits is starting to appear in stores (recently spotted at Harrods.) Cuir Noir was created by perfumer Nathalie Lorson and includes notes of Bulgarian rose, nutmeg, coriander, guaiac wood, leather, oud, Australian sandalwood, ambergris accord, benzoin.

My overall impression–and it can apply to the whole collection–nicely done, but not mind-blowing enough to warranty the price of 180 British pounds. Cuir Noir starts out as a big sweet amber and leather in the style of Tom Ford Amber Absolute or Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche. There is a distinctive rose note that lingers from top to drydown. The medicinal, smoky oud is such a rich accent that it makes the leather play a second fiddle. Fans of oriental blends will enjoy Cuir Noir, but if you are looking for a smoky rich leather, it will not satisfy the craving.