perfumers on perfume: 7 posts

Today we know Ernest Beaux first and foremost as the creator of Chanel No. 5, but he was also responsible for Bois des Îles, Cuir de Russie, No. 22, and many other early Chanel perfumes. His style is elegant and graceful, but with a strong character. Soir de Paris, a fragrance he created for Bourjois, doesn’t just skip from one note to another; it shimmers, revealing in one moment a peppery citrus and green leaves, and in another a velvety rose and wood shavings. As it turns out, Beaux was not only a great perfumer; he was also a good writer, and his candid observations remain relevant today. In partnership with the Osmothèque, I offer you an excerpt from Memories of a perfumer (Souvenirs d’un parfumeur), a 1946 magazine article by Ernest Beaux published in Industrie de la Parfumerie.   

The article gives a glimpse into what Beaux considered to be the greatest perfumes of his time and his thoughts on the art of perfumery in general. “If our thoughts are but fantasies, such fantasy finds, thanks to the talent of the perfumer, a possibility of fulfillment,” he writes, and I cannot agree more.

The article comes from the archives of the Osmothèque, a French non-profit institution whose mission is to preserve fragrances in their original formulations. The current regulations make it impossible for Chanel to offer No.5 as Beaux intended it to be, but the Osmothèque features it in its collection, which is open to the public. You can also discover there the fragrance masterpieces Beaux mentions in the article:  Houbigant Cœur de Jeannette, Houbigant Fougère Royale, Houbigant Le Parfum Idéal, Houbigant Quelques Fleurs, Piver Le Trèfle Incarnat, Roger & Gallet Vera Violetta, Guerlain Jicky, Guerlain Après l’Ondée, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Coty La Rose Jacqueminot, Coty L’Origan, Caron Le Narcisse Noir, Lanvin Scandal, and Lanvin Arpège.

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The modern simplicity of the Osmothèque building in Versailles belies the rich treasures that this unique perfume museum and conservatory holds.  The Osmothèque is an independent, non-profit organization. Its mission is to preserve fragrances in their original formulations and to allow anyone to experience the iconic perfumes in their original glory. The Osmothèque also curates some of the rarest publications on perfumery, and until now you had to travel to Versailles to access them. I’m very happy to let you know that the organization has offered to open its archives to the readers of Bois de Jasmin and to share some of its most interesting publications.

The articles from the Osmothèque archives that I enjoy the most are the ones written by the perfumers. Robert Bienaimé, Jean Carles, Henri Robert, Edmond Roudnitska, and many other illustrious creators have left not only beautiful perfumes but also a body of writing to inspire a new generation of perfumers.  The articles will be translated into English, and will be published on Bois de Jasmin on a monthly basis as part of the Perfumers on Perfume series.

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