Daniela Andrier: 12 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

To be perfectly honest, the news of Prada launching Infusion de Vétiver did not catch my attention last year. The main reason was that my perfume shelf was breaking under the weight of all of the fantastic vetiver fragrances available today, from the classical Guerlain Vétiver to the avant-garde interpretation of Annick Goutal. Now I regret waiting so long to make myself acquainted with the luminous and refined version presented by Prada. Perfectly executed, it pays great homage to this classical perfume note, while lending a romantic aura, which is not something I find in other vetiver fragrances.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In ballet, the dancer’s foot has the same delicacy and sensitivity that in other art forms is reserved for the hands. The light touch of a ballerina’s satin wrapped toes can express a wide range of emotions, and this effect, underscored by a remarkably steely strength, gives classical dance its unique flavor. When I first discovered Maison Martin Margiela’s debut fragrance, Untitled, its graceful treatment of woods and incense made me immediately draw the dance analogy. While traditionally one envisions these notes as dark and opulent counterpoints to the more evanescent floral and green touches, in Untitled the roles are reversed.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“Exquisitely elegant” was the first impression that formed in my mind as I smelled Prada Infusion d’Homme. It also struck me right away as a masculine fragrance that eschews the conventions of masculine perfumery: dihydromyrcenol (a citrus-lavender aroma material that is commonly used in masculine scents) is not noticeable, citrus is dealt with a light hand, florals are magnified. Created by talented perfumer Daniela Roche-Andrier, who is a nose behind many of Prada’s fragrances, Infusion d’Homme translates Prada aesthetic at its best—subtle, sophisticated, understated, yet somehow dramatic nonetheless.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The ethereal beauty of Prada Infusion d’Iris contrasted with the bitterness of vetiver and galbanum was such that this fragrance quickly ended up among my top favorites, where it still remains. When I learned that Prada is launching a whole collection, Ephemeral Infusions, based around select raw materials, I immediately started to anticipate the releases. Alas, the first launch, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, turned out to be an utter disappointment for me, being reminiscent of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, with all of its good parts sheared out. The most recent addition, Infusion de Tubéreuse, promised to be more interesting: a crisp green floral, suggesting the verdant tuberose buds, the flowers just before they are about to open. Yet, once again I suffer disappointment and I have to admit that Infusion de Tubéreuse does not captivate me at all, as it somehow does not even recall its namesake, even if you imagine it painted in pastel tones.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“They were black when she was in shadow and dark blue in full daylight.” I smell Infusion d’Iris, the latest fragrance from Prada, and Gustav Flaubert’s description of Emma Bovary’s eyes floats up in mind. Is it because I just finished re-reading Madame Bovary and the phrase is still fresh in my memory? Or is it because I find that Infusion d’Iris exhibits the marked diversity of nuances, much like the eyes of beautiful Emma? …

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