Christian Dior: 28 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

One of the three colognes released by Christian Dior in 2004 under the guidance of Hedi Slimane, Cologne Blanche was composed by Francis Kurkdjian. All three fragrances are well-composed, with the attention to detail that cannot be left unnoticed, from the high-quality ingredients to the understated luxury of the packaging. If the name cologne leads one to expect thin and bland citrus concoctions, Cologne trio will definitely be a wonderful surprise. The colognes are quite varied, from bitter herbs and caramel undertones of Eau Noire to chilly elegance of Bois D’Argent. Cologne Blanche is an epitome of refinement, with its marriage of indulgence and comfort set against a ravishing delicacy of almond base enriched by the softest of musks.

The bergamot and orange are the radiant ornaments, delicately intertwined with the herbal whisper of green herbs. It is as if a branch of rosemary got caught in the fruit basket, its piney scent adding a rejuvenating element. The sensual touch of musk is an interesting element, considering the essentially “straight out of the shower clean” aura of the composition. However, there is something ethereal and alluring about the fragrance that makes me want to lean in and inhale the scent emanating from the skin.

The elegant drydown is reminiscent of the bittersweet peach stone, which alternates between milky green almond and lusciously sweet nut. A mere hint of confectioner’s sugar scented with vanilla foils the understated musk of the base. If I am to imagine a fragrance Napoleon would like on Joséphine (a woman of whom he said in his letters, “I must see her and press her to my heart. I love her to the point of madness, and I cannot continue to be separated from her. If she no longer loved me, I would have nothing left to do on earth”), Cologne Blanche would be it, fitting Napoleon’s fastidious cleanliness as well as Josephine’s predilections for exotic musks.

Cologne Blanche, like the other two colognes, Bois d’Argent and Eau Noire, is available in 4.2oz, 8.4oz, and 16.9oz bottles, and can be found at Neiman Marcus and Dior boutiques.

Painting: Pierre-Paul Prud’hon. Portrait of Empress Joséphine. 1805. Oil on canvas, Louvre. Abcgallery.com

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Original Dior Addict was created by Thierry Wasser in 2002, who was also responsible for Addict Eau Fraîche. I am not sure about the authorship of Dior Addict 2, but I will warn that it is unlike the other two compositions, which are vanilla génoise soaked in orange and bourbon syrup and bourbon sorbet, respectively. Dior Addict 2 is a light fruity-floral interpretation, featuring the notes of bergamot, grapefruit, orange, verbena, lily of the valley, lotus, freesia, pineapple, watermelon, grenadine, sandalwood, cedarwood, amber and musk.

Dior decided to expand into the younger market for the summer 2005, and there is no other way to characterize Addict 2 but as having a girly attitude. It is sparkly and pink, with glittering grapefruit notes fizzing on the skin. Red fruit notes are like jelly squares floating in the water, shiny and moist.  Modern aroma chemicals reproduce fruit as a shiny photographic rendition, as opposed to dimly lit Impressionist painting. Whatever the case may be, there is nothing subtle about the acrylic vividness of fruity notes in Addict 2, yet it is not a bad thing in itself. The sparkle and pink rhinestone feel of the composition is softened in the dry down, as the light fruity musk starts to dominate the base notes.

Addict 2 plays up certain clichés of a “young” scent, however, the result is far better than most fragrances of its ilk. If you like Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll or more subdued Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again and Hermèssence Rose Ikebana, Addict 2 might be something to consider.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Guerlain Love is All released exclusively for duty free stores in 2005 features a combination of iris, mimosa and passionfruit.  Tart red berry opening makes for a familiar fruity accord, which becomes even more ubiquitous when a tropical sharpness of passionfruit contributes to the top notes. The rest of the story is as interesting as watching the grass grow–pleasant but forgettable flirty floral facets against treacly and at the same time sharp fruity notes.

The best feature of Christian Dior Dior Star is its lovely gilded flacon, made in the classic Dior shape and embellished with small stars against matted gold. The fragrance has notes of bergamot, mandarin petitgrain, honeysuckle, peony, sugared almonds and musk. At first, it smells not unlike green chestnuts, which is a scent of sugary verdant sap, talcum powder and unopened flower buds. However, before I had a chance to fully enjoy the vision of prickly green chestnut shell, the fragrance took a turn for a dull unoffensive floral.

Although it is not a duty-free exclusive, I would also like to mention a new Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again limited edition called “Fleur de la Passion”.  Out of all summer limited editions (Van Cleef et Arpels, Lancôme, etc.), it is definitely the most interesting, even though this is not saying much. It is a straightforward fruit salad, with passion fruit and raspberry dominating. In the top notes, it reminds me of the original, with the sharp blast of pink grapefruit and a rainfall of rose petals. Here, sharpness of grapefruit is somewhat muted by raspberries and sweet-sour aspect of passion fruit (not passion flower as I was expecting, even though later it does soften into a floral aspect more like passion flower, which raspberries manage to choke). The development is similiar to In Love Again, but all of the stages are permeated by raspberries.