Parfums de Rosine: 9 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The best summer fragrances manage to be refreshing as well as complex. When Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s line introduced Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose in 2002, I immediately fell in love with its scent of white rose petals folded into lemon sorbet. Indeed, the top notes are very interesting reminding me of unopened rose buds due to the crisp and green accords of bergamot tempering the sweetness of roses.

The heart loses some of the citrusy effervescence, however it is still a gorgeous creamy white rose fragrance that remains fresh and sparkling. A touch of jasmine adds a dusky opulent note, whereas vetiver prevents the fragrance from being one-dimensional. The dry down of rose on the base of subtle sandalwood and vetiver touched by amber balanced subtle warmth and icy sting, not unlike caipirinha, a Brazilian drink made with ice, vodka, sugar and lime. Although the lasting power is average, Un Zest de Rose is such a perfect choice for the summer that I do not mind refreshing it.

Available at Aedes and First-in-Fragrance.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Rose soufflé with fruit salad, Parfums de Rosine Rose D’Été is a rose fragrance for those who think that rose is sentimental and hopelessly romantic. Rose D’Été is anything but sentimental. It is effervescent and vivid, in its explosion of melon and apple against the backdrop of yellow rose and honeyed flowers accord. It is exuberant, and almost too much so, veering into syrupy and cloying. The resulting outcome is a disconcerting vacillation between roses heated by the sun and a rose jam. While the latter is delicious, after a couple of bites the feeling of overindulgence sets in. The same takes place with Rose D’Été—while I enjoy the rose soufflé accords at first, an hour later they begin to irritate me with their sugariness.

Notes: apple, galbanum, bergamot; yellow rose, linden blossom, mimosa, lotus blossom; ambrette seed, musk.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The desire to capture a place impression in a scent has inspired many fragrances. One of the most trendsetting perfumes, Coty Chypre introduced in 1917 was an attempt to capture the scents of Cyprus (Chypre, in French). Similarly, Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca (2004) was inspired by Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s visit to the rose gardens of Andalucia. My expectations were of hot red rose embellished by spices, however the fragrance is a powdery soft rose in the 18th century boudoir seduction vein–lace over powdered décolletage. Orange blossom paired with soufflé of roses appears in the top notes, however, soon the fragrance warms up, conjuring an impression of powdered hot skin. Although sensuality with the lady-like elegance is a combination that is rarely encountered, Rosa Flamenca manages to convey both, without accenting either characteristic too much.

Notes: orange blossom, bergamot, petitgrain, jasmine, rose, fig leaf; sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

Painting: Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Gabrielle with a Rose. 1911. Musée d’Orsay, Paris, France. abcgallery.com.

Update: Mea Culpa has been discontinued.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Marie-Hélène Rogeon reintroduced Les Parfums de Rosine in 1991. The house created several unusual rose fragrances. Mea Culpa which debuted in the 1990s is a departure from this tradition as it is classified as a tuberose scent, and after Rogeon decided to revert to rose scents exclusively, this fragrance was discontinued. Mea Culpa opens up with creamy white roses and a hint of tuberose before losing some of the sweetness and gaining an aquatic quality. Tuberose is never pronounced, although it does become more apparent in the middle. It hides in the background and adds a lush quality to other notes. Jasmine appears soon thereafter adding its rich fruity note. Contrary to expectations, this fragrance is not what I would consider a heady floral, it is understated with floral notes intertwining beautifully. The final result reminds me of aquatic flowers–water lilies resting on the dark surface of a pond, pink lotus raised above the dark surface–due to the cool and fresh notes of the dry down which completely surprised me. Although Mea Culpa deserves a merit of the lightest tuberose fragrance I have tried, after a while it starts to lose its multifaceted quality, softening into a pleasant, but flat floral.

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