Rochas: 3 posts

Rochas Alchimie : Perfume Review

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The curious part about sampling a lot of fragrances is that contrary to my expectations, my tastes have gotten more eclectic, rather than more constrained. When I started writing articles here at Bois de Jasmin, I had very strong opinions on what I liked—jasmine (hence, the name of my blog!), iris, sandalwood and what I avoided—vanilla, fruit, anise. Well, seven years later, I realize that I like vanilla sweetened perfumes as much as I enjoy heady jasmine and cold iris perfumes. When I first tried Rochas Alchimie a few years ago, I didn’t even give it much chance. It contained every single thing I thought I disliked—rich vanilla, sweet caramel, juicy red berries and a sprinkling of sugared anise seeds. I thought it would be best as a dessert, not as a perfume.

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Rochas Femme New and Vintage : Perfume Review

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Femme_1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“Let me tell you, I created [Rochas] Femme in 1943 in Paris during the worst days of the war in a building that had a rubbish dump on one side and paint factory on the other,” remarked Edmond Roudnitska about one of his most sensual compositions, a perfume that smells of woman’s skin and ripe summer plums.

Some perfumes become classics because they are based on appealing, commercial accords (carnation and patchouli, patchouli and maltol, to name some examples), and others gain the status of legends because of their haunting beauty, even if it presents a challenge. Femme’s beauty is arresting and spellbinding, its main accord heavy like a heart filled with longings. …

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Rochas Poupee : Fragrance Review

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Rochas_poupee

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Fruity-floral can be a tired category, since too many of them inundate the market at the present. Rochas presents something different. Poupèe (2004), meaning “doll” in French, is an example of tuberose and fruit marriage. Anne Flipo, a nose behind many of L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, including La Chasse Aux Papillons, Jacinthe du Bois and Violette Vert, paired white floral accords against a pure yellow of pineapple. The top notes are a rainstorm of orange blossom and tuberose, both of which quickly melt into the sweetness of tart fruity shimmer. The fruity jam stage is my least favourite part, however it does not last particularly long, before giving tuberose a center stage it rightfully claims, accompanied by a hint of powdery violet and soft nutty notes. The final bars are those of a vanillic warmth of benzoin. I find Poupèe to be too sweet for me and perhaps too pretty, but it is still a nice example of the modern fruity floral.

Notes: Orange blossom, pineapple, gardenia, green jasmine, hazelnut, tuberose, sandalwood, benzoin, amber, balms.

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