Elegant: 198 posts

def: vetiver — frequently used in perfumery, vetiver oil is steam distilled from the rootlets of grass Vetiveria Zizanoides. It has a dark earthy-woody aroma, with a grapefruit bitterness and a touch of anise-like sweet spiciness.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The newest addition to Chanel’s Les Exclusifs range, Sycomore is advertised as inspired by the fragrance originally created in 1930. I have a bottle of the original, therefore I was curious to compare the two. I would describe the original Sycomore as closer in spirit to Bois des Iles (vetiver, sandalwood and soft aldehydes.) It played up its gamine features with a twist of tobacco and violet.  The new Sycomore eschews the obvious floral allusions. It is an elegant and pared down vetiver, which emphasizes the green hazelnut facet of the root. The embellishments are subtle, yet they serve to highlight the beauty of the raw material well. With hardly any retro references, Sycomore (2008) is a thoroughly modern fragrance. As far as I can tell, there are few, if any, allusions to the vintage. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“They were black when she was in shadow and dark blue in full daylight.” I smell Infusion d’Iris, the latest fragrance from Prada, and Gustav Flaubert’s description of Emma Bovary’s eyes floats up in mind. Is it because I just finished re-reading Madame Bovary and the phrase is still fresh in my memory? Or is it because I find that Infusion d’Iris exhibits the marked diversity of nuances, much like the eyes of beautiful Emma? …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I very much anticipated the launch of No.5 Eau Première. Granted, not everything from Chanel has enchanted me. I could live without Chance and the numerous masculine Allure flankers. Les Exclusifs could have possessed more tenacity. Yet, all of this notwithstanding, I am hard-pressed to point out another fragrance house (with the important and notable exception of Estée Lauder in the US) that pays so much attention to the actual contents of the fragrance flacons. The fruity jasmine, the sumptuous rose and the seductively creamy musk of No.5 Eau Première have the kind of richness and quality that seems to be more and more difficult to find elsewhere.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When the house of Amouage was established in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman, the renowned perfumer Guy Robert essentially received carte blanche when it came to creating the signature Amouage fragrance. Now known as Amouage Gold, it is a perfume epitomizing luxury and opulence, a composition of traditional Omani ingredients, yet created in the grand style of French perfumery. Robert, whose creations include Hermès Equipage, Doblis and Calèche, Christian Dior Dioressence, and Madame Rochas, is a master of the gilded and elegant compositions that evoke mirrored ballrooms and Strauss waltzes. Likewise, Gold is a polished and luminous fragrance that dazzles without ever losing its refined quality. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Chanel No 18 is startling. Unctuous and green at first, reminiscent of olive oil and green tea leaves, it becomes warm and floral, separating into soft billowing layers of fruity rose and powdery musk. The striking simplicity of this composition belies its inherent loveliness. It is gentle without becoming meek, delicate without appearing pale and feminine without being clichéd. …

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