Refreshing: 98 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The mandarin peel unravels in a loose curl, revealing translucent fleshy segments. The newest fragrance from L’Artisan, Mandarine tout simplement (2006) is an uncomplicated vignette based around the sweet citrus. If I close my eyes and inhale the scent emanating from my wrist, the image of glossy orange spheres is so vivid that my mouth begins to water. The sweet and tart facets are wonderfully balanced, with the composition eschewing the acidic bite that characterizes many citrus fragrances.

Nevertheless, this poem is far too succinct, because after bursting into a mouthwatering firework of citrus, Mandarine tout simplement slowly begins to soften into a somewhat watery floral. It is still quite pretty, especially since the pairing of sweet citrus and floral accents reminds me of a similar accord in En Passant. And then it simply vanishes, as one might expect from a light summery citrus—a teasing glimpse of thirst quenching fruit. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Lys Mediterranee is a lily in the floral bouquet of Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums, which includes two lush roses (Lipstick Rose and Une Rose), indolic jasmine (Le Parfum de Thérèse), rain drenched lilac (En Passant), elegant iris (Iris Poudré), sensual tuberose (Carnal Flower) and powdery mimosa (Une Fleur de Cassie). Woven by its creator, Edouard Fléchier, from several different lilies, it shines like dew drops on a large white flower floating in a bowl of water. Its heady sweet aroma is underscored by the succulent verdancy and aquatic transparency, giving a sensation of a cold waxy petal and golden pollen that spills leaving a dusty trail.

The linear nature of Lys Méditerranée and its static crystalline beauty are liable to leave me cold. On the one hand, it makes me think of lily symbolizing purity and, on another, of its funereal associations. Lily as a dominant theme has an effect of a cold crispness, which I find lovely but distant, wishing for a soft velvety touch to balance out the chilliness. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s take on citrus results in a brilliant clarity supported by a minimalistic and subtly sensual foundation. When The Different Company Divine Bergamote first debuted in 2003, my expectations were of a straightforward citrus fragrance supported by a cedarwood base—a common pairing in perfumery. However, from the first explosion of silky sweet and astringent bergamot to the base notes of soft delicate musk, the fragrance never developed like I imagined.

Ellena used 70% of natural bergamot in the composition and fused it with ginger, which highlights the spicy and chilly quality of the top notes. Like Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade, another Ellena creation, Divine Bergamote is ornamented beautifully with both floral and verdant touches, none of which are distinct enough to be readily recognized. Yet, they weave seamlessly through the composition, modifying and softening the astringency of citrus. One moment, I smell a cup of chilled ginger tea; the next, a crushed flower bud. Through this impressionistic mélange, I notice a delicate scent of skin after a day in the sun. There is a mere hint of warmth, yet it is enough to lend a whisper of sensuality to the drydown and a doze of interest to what could have been just a sparkling citrusy fragrance.

Notes: bergamot (70% of natural bergamot), ginger, orange blossom, leaf green, rhubarb (wood), musk.

Among quintessential summer perfumes, Eau d’Hadrien rules supreme. Created by perfumer Henri Sorsana and Annick Goutal in 1981, it is a crisp and effervescent fragrance that relies on the combination of lemon and grapefruit underscored by basil and cypress to capitalize on the burst that citrus can give to fragrances. The icy pearls of citrus notes scatter on the skin and provide a sensation of cold breeze. While the sparkling quality of citrus is wont to be shortlived, as it begins to vanish, dry piney notes of cypress embrace citrus, preventing its chilly glitter from melting away. Moreover, a touch of ylang ylang lends a subtle sweetness that combines perfectly with tart citrus notes. For me, Eau d’Hadrien is a walk down the sun lit road, where the heat of the sun competes with the cool wind swaying the trees lining the path.

Eau d’Hadrien soap is wonderful, and if one enjoys fresh citrusy scents, it will surely delight. The soaps are 4.2 oz each, beautifully packaged and decorated. Their strong scents linger pleasantly, making any of the soaps a great addition to the morning shower.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky. Old Town II. 1902. Oil on canvas. 52 x 78.5 cm. Musée National d’Art Moderne, Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The best summer fragrances manage to be refreshing as well as complex. When Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s line introduced Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose in 2002, I immediately fell in love with its scent of white rose petals folded into lemon sorbet. Indeed, the top notes are very interesting reminding me of unopened rose buds due to the crisp and green accords of bergamot tempering the sweetness of roses.

The heart loses some of the citrusy effervescence, however it is still a gorgeous creamy white rose fragrance that remains fresh and sparkling. A touch of jasmine adds a dusky opulent note, whereas vetiver prevents the fragrance from being one-dimensional. The dry down of rose on the base of subtle sandalwood and vetiver touched by amber balanced subtle warmth and icy sting, not unlike caipirinha, a Brazilian drink made with ice, vodka, sugar and lime. Although the lasting power is average, Un Zest de Rose is such a perfect choice for the summer that I do not mind refreshing it.

Available at Aedes and First-in-Fragrance.