Green & Galbanum: 43 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The dryness of Sous Le Vent stings mildly before the caress of flower petals tempers the rustic feel of the herbal notes gracing the top accord. The perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1934, and while I would not call it modern, it has a timeless quality of an artwork that moves with its beauty. In the classical chypre family, Sous Le Vent holds a place as a composition that blends the sensual elegance of Mitsouko and the roughhewn character of Coty Chypre, with the most intriguing result. While it touches in a gentler manner than the green leather of another fascinating Guerlain composition, Djedi, its embrace nevertheless has a passionate quality. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although the fashion for fig notes in perfumery has resulted in a diverse range of fragrances, from the green and dry Diptyque Philosykos to the sweet and candied Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis, Premier Figuier (1994) is the composition that started the trend. Created by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Premier Figuier folds the green pepperiness of galbanum around the ivy note in order to create its signature fig accord.

Giacobetti’s rendition of the green notes is quite impressive, because while conjuring the intoxicating smell of sticky green buds, her orchestration does not have a raspy, aggressive element that characterizes many verdant compositions. The milky note reminiscent of broken dandelion stems foils the arrangement, providing an interesting floral counterpoint that harmonizes the green and woody accords of Premier Figuier. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The newest fragrance from Diptyque, Eau de Lierre, convinced me that I have a while longer to wait for an intense green perfume as well for a Diptyque fragrance that can be compared in its originality to Eau Lente and Virgilio. Jardin Clos was disappointingly pale, Do Son was pretty, but not particularly outstanding. Tam Dao is probably my favorite out of the recent offerings; however, as much as I like its dry sandalwood accord, it is difficult to call it distinctive.

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Eau de Lierre is sheer, transparent and weightless. It reminds me of Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée and Philosykos. It has the same peppery driftwood note that appears in Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée, which is accented by the delicate greenness noticeable in Philosykos. However, while Andre Putnam Preparation elegantly unfolds into a composition marked by the melancholy simplicity, Eau de Lierre does not move beyond its initial gauzy prettiness. Then, like the evanescent spring beauty of cherry blossoms, Eau de Lierre vanishes leaving a musky trace behind.

Admittedly, I by far prefer the more vivid exploration of green notes in Chanel No. 19, Balmain Vent Vert (original), Balmain Ivoire and Diptyque’s own green perfection, Virgilio to anything that can be found in this new Diptyque fragrance. On the other hand, for those who like the subtlety of Diptyque Ofresia and Philosykos, the translucent green touch of Eau de Lierre might be perfect. And yet, I cannot but hope that the next Diptyque will break with their recent trend for subtle and pretty.

Eau de Lierre’s official launch is supposed to take place in May. Other Diptyque fragrances are availalbe at Aedes, Bigelow Chemists, Fourseasonsproducts, as well as Diptyque boutiques in Paris, London, Boston, and San Francisco.

Photo: Ivy, from iamtonyang.com/

Chanel No. 19 needs no words of praise because its beauty renders them superfluous. Even its seemingly difficult facets—the aggressive verdancy of galbanum, the woody duskiness of iris—are arranged in such a harmonious manner that one cannot but admire how the green, vibrant top notes melt into the leathery darkness of the base.

The number 19 refers to Coco Chanel’s birthday, August 19th. The story goes that No.19 was her personal fragrance; however, this is unlikely, since the perfume was composed only in 1970, less than a year before her death. No. 19 was created by the Chanel in-house perfumer Henri Robert, who is also responsible for the chypre austerity of Pour Monsieur (1955) and the shimmery bite of Cristalle EDT (1974). Robert created only a few fragrances for the house; however, his contribution cannot be measured by the number of perfumes linked to his name. Being responsible for maintaining the quality of Chanel No. 5, searching out the best quality materials and adapting the formula for the parfum de toilette and eau de toilette, Robert has to be credited for the continuing success of No. 5. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Poignantly elegant and refined, Lancome Climat is a beautiful arrangement in which green notes are set against the lustrous glow of aldehydes and then blended into the waterfall of flowers. It touches with its ability to remain like a piece of gossamer fabric floating in the wind, while possessing a decadently sensual richness afforded by the animalic notes on which Climat rests its diaphanous form.

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