Jasmine: 63 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Abstraction is what modern perfume has been striving for over the course of the 20th century, moving away from the representational genre dominating the previous periods. The first abstract fragrance was Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882), which combined synthetic material coumarin with bergamot, oakmoss and geranium. Elegantly serene abstraction is how Comme des Garçons Odeur 53 can be characterized, a fragrance that is comprised solely of synthetics in its attempt to reproduce such inorganic smells as sand and metal.

Created in 1998 by Martine Pallix, Odeur 53 strikes me as a cubist take on a classical jasmine and wood combination. Abstract is an important qualifier here, since the fragrance does not represent either to the extent that they are obvious. Yet, somehow the composition reveals the essential elements of this pairing—warmth and woody sweetness. Daringly, more than 60% of the formula is comprised of hedione, which is an aromachemical possessing a radiant jasmine quality. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Spices folded into jasmine cream, with a metallic note cutting through the voluptuous richness is a vision of olfactory dessert that was created by Annick Ménardo. Having debuted in 1998, Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison does not shock like the original Poison. Instead, everything about its voluptuous oriental form is slow seduction. At the same time, it projects a comforting aura, with the sweetness of vanilla unfolding against the radiant freshness of musk and the milky bitterness of almonds.

Underscored by jasmine, a cloud of powdered sugar settles upon the base of elegant musk and vanilla. The musk note is almost austere, with a clean and metallic touch that contrasts beautifully with the bitterness of almond, conferring a restraint upon gourmand notes. ….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Used for centuries in China and ancient Greece, licorice is a scent that vacillates between sweet and cool, creating a sensation of an ice cube sliding across hot skin. Sweetness of anise laced with spicy greenness is accented by warm and delicately earthy vanilla. Aftelier Perfumes Licorice teases with its subtle spice and luscious vanilla notes.

Jasmine solid perfume opens with a tart note of pink grapefruit and sweetness of orange, which are a nice counterpoint to the lush opulence of jasmine. Amplifying its fruity facets, citrus creates a scintillating burst, given the presence of aldehydes in its oils. The solid perfume melds into the skin creating a gentle veil of sparkling jasmine.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among the fragrances André Fraysse created, none can rival Arpège, which the perfumer composed in 1927 for the French couturier Jeanne Lanvin, in collaboration with Paul Vacher.  Scandal (1932), Rumeur (1932), and Pretexte (1937) followed after the success of Arpège. Jeanne Lanvin dedicated Arpège to her musician daughter, Marie-Blanche, who picked the name for the fragrance.

The original 1927 formulation of Arpège is true to its name–a musical concept of arpeggio–in a sense that individual notes are played distinctly one after another instead of simultaneously. Rose dusted by opalescent aldehydic shimmer unfolds first, followed by rich jasmine.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Creed Love in White, launched in August of 2005, is promoted as a global fragrance due to the fact the essences comprising it were hand-picked by Creed over five years, as he traveled on his yacht. The fragrance is composed of orange zest; risk husk, iris, white jasmine, daffodils, magnolia, rose; vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood.

Unlike most of Creed’s feminine fragrances, this is a lacy and soaring composition, from the burst of orange in the top notes to the sheer delicacy of the base. Orange sparkles melt into the rich heart of a white bouquet rendered effervescent by hedione, a very diffusive aroma chemical that simulates jasmine. In this sense, it reminds me of another Creed fragrance, Spring Flowers, which is a fruity-floral bouquet, accented by hedione. Unlike Spring Flowers, Love in White is a more transparent composition, lacking a juicy sweetness of Spring Flowers, yet both are extremely tenacious. In the end, Love in White remains a very linear fragrance that I cannot characterize in any other way as loud. The lack of development does not always forebode doom, but in this case, the fragrance does not meld into my skin, striking me rather like an artificial bouquet.

On the other hand, if you like Spring Flowers, you might want to try Love in White. It is available at select Neiman Marcus stores.