Rose: 149 posts

The rose is wrapped in amber and warm balsamic notes, but the start is fruity and bright. Although Rose Absolute has a classical rose character, it is  a modern flower. The roses are rendered in vivid and rich hues. Smelling the perfume on skin, I keep craving rose jam; Rose Absolute evokes crystallized petals suspended in translucent honey. The sweetness, on the other hand, is tempered by woods and patchouli. As Rose Absolute develops, it becomes darker, earthier and warmer. It never loses its sophisticated aura, but the character is lighthearted and vivacious. Wearing it is a pleasure.

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There is a striking dissonance between the vulgarity implied by the name, Putain des Palaces (Hotel Slut), and the elegant character of the fragrance itself. Perhaps it’s just me, but Etat Libre d’Orange names that sound as if they were jotted down by a bunch of teenage boys after a night of drinking do not entice me. On the other hand, they do not repulse me either, as the only thing worth judging the perfume on is its scent. And yet, Putain des Palaces is a beauty, hinting at flowers foiled by soft leathery notes. If Sécrétions Magnifiques is one of the most unusual and innovative compositions from Etat Libre d’Orange and Jasmin et Tabac is the most edgy, Putain des Palaces is undoubtedly the most polished and seductive. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Nuit d’Amour is the latest limited edition from Guerlain, which follows the 2005 launch of Plus Que Jamais. The fragrance was inspired by Gustav Klimt’s Lady with Hat and Feather Boa (Dame au Chapeau et Boa de Plumes). I am rather at a loss as to what about the flat floral oriental blend is meant to evoke a beautiful Art Noveau painting depicting a flushed redhead tightly wrapping a dark feather boa around her shoulders. Although Plus Que Jamais was a level below the classical Guerlains and their depth and complexity, it nevertheless captured the opulence and romance marking the house’s creations. Nuit d’Amour, on the other hand, veers too far into territory that has already been well explored and exploited. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although rose is often seen as dowdy and old-fashioned, the perfumer Jacques Cavallier set the silky rose petals on the transparent ambery base and rendered the flower crisp and spicy in his fragrance for Stella McCartney. Rose Absolute followed the original, and it was still exciting, being darker, richer and warmer. Then there were a few summer limited editions, Stella Sheer, which offered a lighter take on the rose-amber marriage. Now, Stella in Two takes inspiration from the success of the original creation by offering yet another Stella variation. This time, Stella can be bought in two parts, Peony and Amber. Is it possible to stretch the concept too far? As I have discovered, yes. I was won over by the retro charm of the original, loved the richness of Rose Absolute and enjoyed the freshness of Stella Sheer. Now, I feel ready to explore something new. ….

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The decisions of fragrance houses to reach into their archives tend to elicit mixed feelings in me. While getting a whiff of a 1920s boudoir or a 1950s cocktail party seems like an intriguing proposition, the past cannot be resurrected in all of its complex and intricate detail. The reissued fragrances would inevitably differ from their predecessors either due to commercial (change in tastes) or practical (disappearance of raw materials) considerations. At worst, the juice in the bottle would have little to do with the fragrance that supposedly inspired it. Thankfully, the recent reorchestration of Baghari respects the Robert Piguet tradition, resulting in a fragrance that combines modern radiance with neoclassical softness.

Continue reading →