Sandalwood: 42 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Limited edition for the holidays, Brit Gold was created by Antoine Lie of Givaudan in 2005. In contrast with Brit and Brit Red (created by Nathalie Gracia-Cetto), green Oriental and gourmand Oriental respectively, Brit Gold is a richer, warmer composition, with more subdued sweetness. Its classical oriental elements, particularly the combination of bergamot with vanilla and amber, recall the sumptuous elegance of fragrances like Guerlain Shalimar.

The interplay of orange blossom against the dark sandalwood backdrop is one of my favorite aspects of Brit Gold. Through the hazy mist of delicate floral notes and bergamot, the vivid hues of the base glow gently, gaining more vibrancy as the fragrance dries down. While the composition does not undergo dramatic changes, the development is fascinating, given the fact that the base notes are evident from the start. This construction lends a certain transparency to the composition, while preserving its elegant richness.

The accord of iris, vanilla and amber that is present in all Brit fragrances, blossoms out of the heart, adding an oriental element. At one point, I think of a carved sandalwood box used to store vanilla and lemon bon bons. The drydown reveals the base notes of sandalwood and musk in their full splendor. Little by little, the floral elements fade, leaving their subtle imprint upon the wooded relief of the base. The finished composition has a luminous quality that calls to mind a dance of candlelight upon dark polished wood.

Brit Gold was launched exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Burberry retail stores in September. It will also be sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. Notes include magnolia, neroli, black currant, bergamot, pink iris, amber, vanilla, sandalwood and musk.

Nuit de Noël was my introduction to the house of Caron, and what a wonderful exploration it has charted out for me. Caron creations seem unusual to me; they are carefully balanced, possessing a dark languid undercurrent that immediately conjures visions of classical French couture. I do not want to use the term old-fashioned since it is liable to negative connotations, but Caron’s creations have a classical aspect that I do find appealing, if slightly nostalgic.

Nuit de Noël was created in 1922 by Ernest Daltroff for his lover, Félicie Vanpouille, who loved Christmas Eve and the scents associated with it. Indeed, it is a quiet, whispering fragrance, conjuring perfectly the silence and the serenity of the night before Christmas. “Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse…” (by Clement Clarke Moore). Nuit de Noël is one of my favorite Caron scents because of its interesting composition and exquisite dry down. Overall, Nuit de Noël is a soft wood-based scent with a floral heart. The top notes are very classical rose, jasmine and ylang ylang–dry floral notes rather than a creamy modern composition. The most interesting changes take place after the fragrance dries down slightly. Suddenly the floral blend is dissipated by the wetness of oakmoss. Then the spicy notes become apparent, albeit remaining very soft and intertwining with sandalwood and vetiver. The fragrance does not lose its dry quality which is wonderful and comforting. I imagine walking around in the city as the snow is falling softly.

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