Tuberose: 48 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Diptyque was founded in 1961 by three friends, Desmond Knox-Leet, Christiane Gautrot and Yves Coueslant, who received training from Ecole des Beaux Arts. Yves Coueslant’s connection with Vietnam produced Diptyque’s sandalwood based fragrance, Tam Dao. Do Son, named after a resort on the coast of Vietnam, southeast of Hai Phong City, is another Vietnam inspired creation, to be released in October of 2005.

Do Son is an airy tuberose that is reminiscent in character of L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons. Delicate green note is weaved through hot tuberose, thus lightening the effect and creating a fragrance that is more a delicate tuberose mist than a heady veil.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Cèdre (2005) is a flame caressing hot cedarwood curls. Its pairing of tuberose and cedar settles into a dark warm composition, with rather soft woodsy notes. Once again, Sheldrake&Lutens flight of fancy results in an enchanting Arabian vignette, taken from the One Thousand and One Nights. The sensual fluidity of the composition transports one from the fragrant pillows of Middle Eastern palaces through the spice stalls of the souks and into the confines of a tea house, where steam rising from the cups swirls amid heated conversations. Tuberose shimmers against the dark backdrop of resinous juices dusted with cinnamon. Heated by a hot breath of spices, the floral notes attain a clove ornamentation. This soft whisper of cloves echoes through the dark sweetness of wood. Ambery warmth suffuses the sonorous melody of the composition, adding an autumnal feel to the cedarwood foundation.

Picture: Limited edition bottle of Cèdre.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Joel Rosenthal’s creations tend to not so much develop on the skin, as to scatter in unpredictable patterns like a handful of spilled pearls. In some cases, the results are odd, while in others they are odd, but fascinating. JAR Bolt of Lightning is one of the most unusual creations from the house, with its pairing of white florals and green fruit, creating a deep wet accord against a hot floral breath. Crushed red currants, broken twigs and blooming dahlias is what I think about whenever I wear Bolt of Lightning. It makes me think of a summer garden on a hot July morning, when the dew is evaporating quickly from the leaves and the scents of wet foliage and blooming flowers are hanging thickly in the air.

Once the initial green currant bud note softens, the juicy tart berry comes to the fore. It is rather subtle, but very refreshing. Finally, a note that reminds me of green Bosc pears appears. Intertwining with dark tuberose, it nevertheless remains vibrant, ornamenting the richness of the composition.

For more information on the JAR Parfums, see my review of Golconda.

Parfums Delrae was founded by DelRae Roth in 2000, and she has maintained her brand by collaborating with Michel Roudnitska, a son of genius perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. Michel Roudnitska, an accomplished perfumer in his own right, is the nose behind Parfums Delrae line, which as of now consists of four fragrances, Eau Illuminée, Amoureuse, Bois de Paradis, and Début.

Amoureuse, containing notes of tangerine, cardamom, French tuberose, French jasmine, Tahitian ginger lily, cedar moss, sandalwood, honey, is my favourite of the range. The first burst of sweet citrus underscored by spicy gingery scent of cardamom is reminiscent of my other favorite, Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, except where Le Parfum de Thérèse folds into the leather accord, Amoureuse continues to soar.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Wearing tuberose soliflore is like eating a bar of dark chocolate in one go. In other words, it can be intoxicating to the point of decadence and overindulgence. Yet, sometimes it is exactly what one craves.

The aforementioned houses share the same perfumer, Jean Laporte, who after leaving L’Artisan Parfumeur founded Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. L’Artisan’s interpretation of tuberose (created in 1978) is pure butter, interspersed with honeyed petals. It opens up on a sharp and slightly abrasive note, however it mellows considerably as the drydown approaches. The result is a lush spicy tuberose scent, which is a bit closer to gardenia than a true tuberose.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Tubereuse (1988) renders its tuberose as a thousand layer cake. The layers of creamy soft tuberose appear to unfold further and further, laced with minute spicy and distinctly green undertones that make this fragrance more complex than that of L’Artisan. The green note is very pronounced, and it may not appeal to someone seeking a perfectly creamy tuberose soliflore.

Update: L’Artisan Tubereuse has been discontinued.