Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Another flanker, another fruity floral…. Initially, there seemed to be little reason for me to review Givenchy Ange ou Démon Le Secret, a 2009 sequel to the original Ange ou Démon. Yet as I was smelling it over and over again in the street and in the office, it struck me as a nicely crafted soft floral accord, where the tart fruity notes fizzle like champagne bubbles in a Mimosa cocktail. It is approachable, likable and pretty.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka have long been the darlings of Hollywood celebrities and publications such as Vogue, which named them among the “Top 10 American Designers.” The classical silhouettes of their glamorous gowns, their predilection for luxurious, yet understated embellishments and their ability to distinguish between good taste and wanton excess is what garnered loyal support for the duo’s collections. It is therefore not surprising to discover that Badgley Mischka has pursued a union of fashion with fragrance via their eponymous release created by the Firmenich perfumer Richard Herpin.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I find it easier to describe Vitriol d’Oeillet, the newest fragrances from Serge Lutens, by describing what it is not, rather than what it is. It is not a romantic perfume nor is it an austere perfume. It is not modern, yet it is not old-fashioned either. It is not femme fatale nor is it a wallflower. It oscillates between woods and spices, and only occasionally does Vitriol d’Oeillet veer into the floral domain. Sometimes it is a spicy carnation, but a moment later it turns into a prim English tea rose.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

To be perfectly honest, the news of Prada launching Infusion de Vétiver did not catch my attention last year. The main reason was that my perfume shelf was breaking under the weight of all of the fantastic vetiver fragrances available today, from the classical Guerlain Vétiver to the avant-garde interpretation of Annick Goutal. Now I regret waiting so long to make myself acquainted with the luminous and refined version presented by Prada. Perfectly executed, it pays great homage to this classical perfume note, while lending a romantic aura, which is not something I find in other vetiver fragrances.

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My article on Germaine Cellier, a perfumer I admire for her genius, confidence and ability to succeed despite all odds against her, appears today in Financial Times Magazine. In Renegade Perfumer, I talk about Cellier and one of her most famous creations, Robert Piguet Fracas.