решетилівський художній ліцей: 1 post

White on White : Vyshyvanka and Poltava Embroidery

My favorite piece of clothing is a white linen shirt. The tailoring is plain–a straight, loose bodice is framed by a rounded collar and full three-quarter sleeves. In Ukrainian it’s called vyshyvanka, which means “an embroidered shirt,” and indeed the ornamentation is what makes this simple garment unique. The embroidery runs near the collar and falls onto the front of the bodice. It covers the sleeves so thickly that in some parts the fabric is hardly seen. The stitches become the bands of stars, snowflakes, lace and guelder rose, kalyna, a plant that in the symbolic language of Ukrainian art speaks of beauty and happiness. On my shirt, kalyna is abstract enough to be either flowers or berries, and it is intertwined with sinuous leaves and wispy stems. In the artist’s rendering of bile po bilomu, an embroidery technique native to Poltava, only one color is used to capture all of the nuances that in nature are given by a diversity of hues. The color is white.

white-shirt2

Bile po bilomu, or “white on white”, is among the oldest and most complicated embroideries, combining up to twenty different techniques and using drawn thread and counted stitch patterns to create an ornament full of light and shimmer. The artist who created my shirt is Nadia Vakulenko, one of the leading embroidery masters in Ukraine and a teacher at the Reshetylivka Arts Lyceum. Reshetylivka is a small town located in the Poltava region of central Ukraine. I first came here looking for any trace of my great-grandmother Olena and to learn about Ukrainian textile arts. The two aims were closely related, because Olena not only was one of the most creative people in our family, leaving behind several cookbooks and countless knits and embroideries, she also worked at Reshetylivka’s Clara Zetkin carpet factory.

Continue reading →

From the Archives

Latest Comments

  • Anna Kullgren in Cartier Must de Cartier Parfum Giveaway: Some of my favorite scents tend to fade rather quickly. I’ve learned that adding it to clothes and hair extend its holding power. Today I wore Versace Woman which holds… February 8, 2023 at 2:06am

  • Tamsin in Cartier Must de Cartier Parfum Giveaway: 1. To prolong longevity I spray my clothes, and love to match my perfume to my outfit colour for psychological longevity! 2. Today I am wearing penhaligons ostara with a… February 7, 2023 at 8:33pm

  • Cyndi in Cartier Must de Cartier Parfum Giveaway: I find the more lubricated my skin is, the longer my fragrance lasts. Another way is to layer them,(using a shower/bath gel or soap in your favorite fragrance), using a… February 7, 2023 at 8:31pm

  • Geraldine in Cartier Must de Cartier Parfum Giveaway: I try to prolong the aroma by spraying several places on my body. I have discovered that I need to be careful about perfume on my neck as I break… February 7, 2023 at 4:50pm

Latest Tweets

Design by cre8d
© Copyright 2005-2023 Bois de Jasmin. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy