1990s perfumes: 7 posts

N’Aimez Que Moi

In 1917, Ernest Daltroff creates a fragrance that captured the promises made by the couples separated by the WWI to remain loyal and to await the return of the loved ones from the front. N’Aimez Que Moi was the name given to  this new perfume by Caron. “Love Only Me!” Alas, it is not a promise I can make. While undoubtedly beautiful, N’Aimez Que Moi is too heavy and powdery even for this fan of makeup-like notes in perfume. The top notes are of creamy rose and violet intertwined with soft lilac. The lush floral bouquet is wrapped in sandalwood and cedar, with an accent of earthy vetiver and iris. Unfortunately, that’s when the fragrance becomes unbearably powdery and opaque, and N’Aimez Que Moi and I part ways.

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Caron Parfum Sacré can be compared to a fine cashmere shawl as it clings to the skin and feels warm and smooth. Created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Béthouart in 1990, it is a spicy oriental, with a big rose in its heart. The first impression is a tingly rush of black pepper. Then, mace (the inner casing of nutmeg), cardamom and lemon grow stronger and richer.

For all its spicy notes, Parfum Sacré is not a dry, pungent fragrance, but caressing and enveloping. The rose softens the middle notes lending them a honeyed sweetness. Rose’s appearance can be compared to a gorgeous stranger entering the room–the clamor stops and every minute whisper is heard distinctly. That’s when I notice orange blossom and iris delicately hinting at their presence. Soon the woody accords undulate slowly lending a resinous aspect to the dry down. The smooth balsamic myrrh, sweet amber and smoky vanilla form the intricate drydown. To call Parfum Sacré sultry is probably an understatement! Still, it is not what I would call a bombshell perfume. Parfum Sacré lends itself to being worn as a comfort scent. On a cold winter day, it is a perfect scented choice–warming and rich, like a glass of mulled wine.

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