noir is the new black: 23 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Angélique Noire created by Daniela Andrier is one of the three new fragrances released by the house of Guerlain for the reopening of their 68 Champs Elysées boutique. The compositions of these fragrances are radiant and refined, recalling the elegant precision of classical Guerlains as well as elements that are rather un-Guerlainesque. The resulting aura of these fragrances is redolent of neoclassism and heightened by some modern touches.

In a neoclassisist attempt, Angélique Noire takes up the bergamot-vanilla pairing of classical Guerlains and builds the composition around it. It opens with a spicy accord jeweled by tart sharpness of bergamot, which fades into the milky bitterness of almond. The peppery austerity of the top notes contrasts beautifully with the honeyed undercurrent that rises up to enfold the heart. Creamy vanilla punctuated by a dark citrus note is what forms the main facet of Angélique Noire. Its somber richness is transparent enough to notice a swirl of almond and spicy sugared angelica, with a whisper of bergamot lightening the vanillic veil. While Andrier did not create another Shalimar, the fragrance possesses a soft and gentle character, creating a sensation of warm silk and hot flower petals. Therefore, perhaps, it is more correct to classify Angélique Noire as a Romantic composition, rather than a Neoclassisist one, in its hazy and sensitive handling of the notes.

Currently, the fragrances are exclusive to 68 Champs Elysées boutique, however they can be ordered by emailing Antoine-Olivier Metz, the store manager, at [email protected]. 75ml is priced at 140 euros.

Painting: One of the neoclassisists, Pierre-Paul Prud’hon. Head of the Virgin for Annunciation. 1811. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, Russia. abcgallery.com

Narcisse Noir

5 stars

Caron Narcisse Noir created in 1911 by Ernest Daltroff is a true child of Art Deco, an era in art and fashion marked by the fascination with the East. The movie Sunset Boulevard enshrined this perfume, when Gloria Swanson pronounced the name in a deep sultry voice, “Black Narcissus, Narcisse Noir.” Even without knowing the context in which Narcisse Noir was created, one whiff of this sensual orange blossom can conjure up the Art Deco’s black and white motifs, Greek art inspired lithe figures, geometrical designs and stylized floral freezes.

 It is a dark fragrance, with a sunny orange blossom note rendered uncharacteristically animalic and brooding. As Narcisse Noir develops, the incense unfolds and wrap the jasmine and orange blossom into a smoky mist.  The eau de toilette is beautiful for its luminous, sparkling quality. The extrait de parfum, on the other hand, is magical, given its rich, smoldering and mysterious character. Notes: orange blossom, lemon, bergamot, and petit grain; rose, jasmine, and jonquil; Persian black narcissus, musk, civet, and sandalwood.

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Caron Or et Noir, “Gold and Black” was created by Michel Morsetti in 1949 in homage to Ernest Daltroff and the tradition of Parfums Caron. Ernest Daltroff was fascinated with roses and incorporated rose absolutes in nearly all compositions he has created for Caron.

A fragrance that served as an inspiration for Parfum Sacré, Or et Noir is a dark rose on a rich base of spices and woods. The opening notes are of honeyed red rose blended with the astringent bite of geranium and bergamot. The sandalwood and black pepper provide a wonderful foil for the rich rose accord. Unlike most rose fragrances that start out bright and crisp and then proceed to warm up on the skin, Or et Noir reveals its sensual facets instantaneously. The darkness of Caron accord is like a breath of cool air that renders the sweet and spicy composition light and airy. I always think of Or et Noir as a rose before sundown, petals closing slowly to hide the unabashedly sultry opening.

One of the Urn Parfums, Or et Noir is available at the Caron boutiques as extrait de parfum. Its notes include Bulgarian rose, centifolia rose and geranium; Anatolian rose, lilac and carnation, oakmoss and woody amber.

On Reformulation 3/31/2011:

The femme fatale roses of Or et Noir are still dark and smoldering, with a wonderful mossy-patchouli undertone. The main difference is that I smell less natural rose and more rose alcohols, which lend Or et Noir an unexpected lemony and zesty quality. Still, it is a good dark rose for those who like this fragrance genre.

Picture: 1949 advertisement for Caron.