top 10: 56 posts

The days have been turning darker and rainier over the past week, and today the first thing I noticed when I stepped outside was a scattering of golden leaves on the ground. Although seasonality in perfume is a vaguely defined concept, it is enjoyable to switch one’s scented wardrobe in anticipation of a new season. For me, the soft florals (or aldehydic florals) and classical florals of the summer give way to the chypre and oriental compositions during the colder months. Both chypres and orientals are comprised of notes that can give a warm sensation, such as the dry heat of patchouli in the former or the sensual richness of spices and resins in the latter. In contrast to the delicate, dewy notes of soft florals like Robert Piguet Baghari and fresh florals like Marc Jacobs Blush, the flowers blooming in the hearts of oriental fragrances are opulent and sweet—rose, jasmine, carnation, narcissus. The iris that forms the link between the middle and base notes of many chypre perfumes is more of a wood than a flower—hefty, silky and rich. What might appear as too heavy and smothering in the heat instead works like a cashmere wrap in the cold. …

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The Father’s Day was yesterday, and in keeping with the theme, I would like to offer a list of top ten masculine fragrances that I find simply outstanding, whether I wear them myself or not. Although the line between feminine and masculine can be somewhat arbitrary, the labeling can be useful as shorthand for identifying particular families and styles. By way of example, fougère is a family that for the most part finds its way into the masculine fragrances; therefore, for women who love the aromatic interplay marking the compositions in this genre, the masculine market will offer many interesting options, from the classics like Caron Third Man to the new releases like L’Artisan Fou d’Absinthe. It is also fascinating to observe the emergence of new trends and techniques in the masculine domain. Ultimately, the decision to designate something as pour homme or pour femme must be a personal one.

1. Azzaro Pour Homme by Azzaro Continue reading →

The end of the year inspires one to reflect on the events that took place over the previous twelve months, to analyze and to draw up resolutions. That is, if you are an organized and clearheaded individual, unlike me. My end of the year is usually much less reflective, being filled with holiday planning and travel arrangements. Nevertheless, this year is different, in light of the important decisions I have been contemplating and the numerous projects on my plate. Indeed, this year has been quite special in many respects, and it is a pleasure to think of the various discoveries I have made during the year. Here is my list in an alphabetical order.

1. Aroma-chemicalsMusk, violet, amber… Having always loved to explore the perfume materials and to collect natural essences and aroma-chemicals, this year I had a chance to sample a large variety of synthetics that were not available to me previously as well as to learn more about fragrance chemistry. This experience has been quite eye opening to the complexity of various aroma-chemicals and the interesting accords they can form with natural essences. What in the past I would have simply termed musky, now has much more nuance: powdery softness of Galaxolide, metallic freshness of Habanolide and so on.

2. Caron Masculines: Pour Un Homme, L’Anarchiste and Le 3ème Homme de Caron The first time I tried Le 3ème Homme de Caron, I became mesmerized by its unique combination of smoky floral facets with the sweet, balsamic undercurrent. It sparked an interest to explore the other Caron masculines, and what wonderful discoveries they were! None of the quintessentially masculine traits are present in Caron masculine fragrances, and even Pour Un Homme with its lavender sparkle illuminating the ambery sweetness does not strike me as particularly virile. Instead, their classical structures are ornamented with unusual touches, resulting in fascinating, multifaceted compositions.

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In the depths of winter I finally learned there was in me an invincible summer. Albert Camus, French existentialist author and philosopher.

Today I wake up with the feeling that it is winter already. Even the white light flooding my bedroom has a chilly quality. The winter means holidays and a much needed break, but before one can reach that stage, it signifies the end of the semester and the madness of the exam week. Therefore, please let me indulge once again into making a list of favorites, my winter favorites that have a warm quality or that allow to awaken my “invincible summer.” Please share yours.

My Winter Favorites (alphabetically ordered)

Cacharel LouLou An abstract vision of dark red flower touched by the dark verdancy, LouLou veils its voluptuous heart of jasmine, tiare and mimosa in the velvety richness of vanilla. The tropical warmth of this fragrance allows one to escape into the world where snow does not exist.

Donna Karan Black Cashmere Its incense laced darkness clings to the skin much like the fabric from which the fragrance derives its name. Warm sweetness of woods and spices in Black Cashmere is a perfect antidote for the cold weather.

Christian Dior Eau Noire  Caramelized bitterness folded into the silkiness of woods, Eau Noire is one of my favorite fragrances by Francis Kurkdjian. Its multifaceted and unusual composition warms up beautifully on the skin, maintaining the sensual and comforting character.

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Happy Thanksgiving! In lieu of writing on a specific perfume today, I have decided to compile a list of my favorite fragrances. Needless to say, this is rather a snapshot of my current likes and a result of a painstaking task of trying to pick only ten fragrances. I left out probably ten times as many my most beloved fragrances as I ended up including. Nevertheless, here they are: my top five classical and top five modern favorites. Please share yours and do not feel constrained to make separate lists like I did!

 

Top Five Classical Favorites

Caron Nuit de Noël 

 If the mood of a quiet snowy day were captured in a bottle, it would be redolent of Nuit de Noël, a fragrance that represents the beauty of rose and incense intertwined over a dark mossy base.

Chanel Bois de Iles

Among Ernest Beaux’s compositions, Bois des Iles’s perfection stands out. It is a painting of gilded woods touched by the delicate spicy notes.

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