Recommend Me a Perfume : January 2023

Happy New Year! I wish everyone a wonderful and healthy 2023, and above all, I wish for peace this year. My fervent dream is to return to Ukraine.

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

In other news, Bois de Jasmin has a Facebook page: Bois de Jasmin. You can also follow me on Twitter and Instagram.

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin



  • Hana: Happy New Year, Victoria and fellow readers! I’d like to get some tips for a new perfume for my husband. He wore Hermes Vetiver Tonka, Boucheron Quatre pour Homme, and Essential Parfums Bois Imperial. He also wore Tom Ford Grey Vetiver as his wedding perfume. In short, he likes modern, lighter, green and herbal scents, nothing too challenging but with good quality ingredients. I’ll appreciate your recommendations. Thanks! January 2, 2023 at 9:15am Reply

    • Klaas: Hello Hanna, Vetiver Tonka is such a gorgeous fragrance! Your husband has exquisite taste 😉

      Bel Respiro from Chanel is another beautiful green fragrance. It’s light and modern and very elegant. Cristalle’s unisex cousin.

      Hinoki by Comme des Garçons is green, crisp and woody. I like it a lot and can’t figure out why I never bought a full bottle!!

      Eau de Gloire by Parfum d’Empire is a modern fougère, with lavender, green herbs and immortelle. Very good quality and very chic.

      If he likes mint he could try Geranium pour Monsieur by Frédéric Malle, though his perfumers have become ridiculously expensive. But light, modern and green for sure!

      Good luck! January 2, 2023 at 9:33am Reply

    • Hamamelis: Another light, green and herbal scent is Mal-aimée by Parfum d’Empire. It starts very green (maybe a bit challenging…lots of weeds like nettle!) but quickly changes into a wonderful scent, with an orris base. January 2, 2023 at 10:29am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: How about Hermès Agar Ébène: very sheer woods without the ghastly nuclear synthetics. January 2, 2023 at 2:59pm Reply

      • Hana: Great tips, thank you all! I have a sample of Hinoki, I just need to dig it out. Agar Ebene is another good one, it’s far too smoky for my husband but I love it on myself 🙂 He prefers Poivre Samarcande which is similar. Mal-Aimee is too challenging but Parfum d’Empire is an excellent brand, we should test other scents from the line. January 3, 2023 at 4:49am Reply

    • Karenb: Le labo Tonka. You can borrow it 😉 January 6, 2023 at 12:19pm Reply

  • Klaas: Hello fragrant lot! At the start of the new year I would like to ask recommendations for a green scent. Green is one of my favorite genres in perfumery, but I find most green fragrances to be quite floral. Chamade, Silences, Scherrer, Private Collection and Dryad are all exquisite green florals but I’m looking for something different…..something grassy, bitter and herbaceous. I very much like Corsica Furiosa by Parfum d’Empire but I was wondering if anyone knows of another perfume that I could try?

    Happy, happy 2023 everybody! I hope this new year will be happy, healthy and inspiring for you all :-)) January 2, 2023 at 9:16am Reply

    • Hamamelis: Hi Klaas, see my reply to Hana, Mal-aimée is worth a try! I read somewhere it is a ‘better’ Corsica Furiosa. Also worth a try is Fleur de Lalita by Dusita, which leans green to me. Gelukkig Nieuwjaar! January 2, 2023 at 10:35am Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Hamamelis, Le Mal Aimé is one that I’ve been wanting to try! Thank you for reminding me. Groetjes!! January 2, 2023 at 11:07am Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hello Klaas,
      Have you tried L’Amandiére by Heeley? It’s really quite green and has the grassy element to it. However, it also has a feel of soft spring florals. So perhaps not what you are looking for? I recently saw that Heeley’s Atheneun is a fig-green, but have never smelled it myself.

      Also, Tom Daxon and Kingdom Scotland are two British houses that have beautiful perfumes with green notes (e.g. Laconia, which is a citrus green). Might be worth testing these out for something new. January 2, 2023 at 11:32am Reply

      • Merylam: I adore L’amandiere, it might be my dessert island spritz. I always think of it as a sister to FM en passant in atmosphere, if definitely not in notes, so might be to floral for Klaas. January 2, 2023 at 2:00pm Reply

        • Silvermoon: Hi Merylam, yes, I see exactly what you mean about the two! I love En Passant. January 2, 2023 at 2:39pm Reply

        • Klaas: En Passant is a work of art! One of my favorites from the FM collection! So delicate, so evocative……They should make it available as a room spray…….can you imagine?? January 3, 2023 at 5:26am Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Silvermoon, I’ll give L’Amandiere a sniff when I visit one of the perfumeries in town. That is, if they will let me in. I’ve walked in and out of there so many times they look at me as if I’m some kind of weirdo. Which is not far from the truth, actually ;-))

        Thank you for your recommendation! January 3, 2023 at 5:24am Reply

        • Silvermoon: 😀 I think they must appreciate the true perfume lovers who show up!

          Is there only one perfume shop where you can test? You will need to come up with a rotation roster to avoid strange looks. 😊 January 3, 2023 at 1:19pm Reply

    • Merylam: Hey there, I have you tried Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle? it is a very green fragrance, but somehow (to me at least) approachable, although it might be to floral for you. January 2, 2023 at 1:59pm Reply

      • Klaas: Yes, I tried it and find it too floral indeed. But a great scent all the same, so thank you for this recommendation! January 3, 2023 at 5:28am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Voorspoedige nieuwjaar! What about this scent, Klaas: 1+1 Folia by Nez. Green, completely out there on your knees sniffing the forest floor, damp leaves, humus, twigs & roots. Quite out of the ordinary but cheap—go onto the Nez website. Groetjes uit Keulen January 2, 2023 at 3:12pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hahaha, this sounds wonderful! Groetjes terug uit Amsterdam xx January 3, 2023 at 5:29am Reply

      • Sebastian: Here’s the marketing text from the magazine: “First of all, there is the smell of dead leaves accumulating, forming new layers of sediment as they rot in an atmosphere that is green, slightly sulphurous and mushroomy.”

        Is that true? Rotting leaves and sulphur? I mean, it does sound interesting… January 3, 2023 at 8:33am Reply

      • Klaas: In The Arboretum looks good, too. And Kraft Gommé! Interesting, interesting…….

        Did you ever try any of the 1 + 1? I’d be curious…. January 3, 2023 at 9:25am Reply

        • OnWingsofSaffron: Yes! The Folia which is of course leaves and (clean) soil: the perfect scent for the gardner!
          Then Hongkong Oolong, an elegant musk and tea scent. I find it quite compelling! January 3, 2023 at 9:36am Reply

    • Alityke: Two greens you may not have tried are Cacherel Eden & Mugler Aura. Both marketed as feminine but both are weird greens. Vegetal more than floral.
      There are the veg based L’Artisans too. January 2, 2023 at 3:28pm Reply

      • Klaas: The veg Artisans are on my to try list…they haven’t been available here much, but I’ll keep an eye out for them. Thank you! January 3, 2023 at 5:31am Reply

    • Marianne: Hi Klaas, have you tried Floris Vert Fougere? It’s green to the point of being austere, polarizing and divisive. Some describe it as yet another ‘barbershop’ scent, nothing wrong with that in my view, but to me, its bitterness takes it beyond that. January 2, 2023 at 3:55pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Marianne, green and austere sounds just like something I would like. I never know what people mean when they say ‘barbershop scent’. At my hairdresser it smells like bleach, shampoo, hairspray and hot air!! I’ll check it out, thank you so much! January 3, 2023 at 5:33am Reply

        • Marianne: Yes, it’s an interesting term, often linked to ‘old school’ and therefore a little dull. Constantly present notes may include lavender, citrus, vetiver, with the addition of a deeper note such as sandalwood, leather or tobacco (I had a look through internet sites). I’ve always loved them for their freshness and chic. To me they evoke contained unconformity worn with a certain careless confidence, rather like a beautifully tailored shirt in a boldly patterned fabric. Now I want to buy a shirt! January 3, 2023 at 4:46pm Reply

          • Klaas: Hahaha, I get you! Barbershop sounds great 😃 I love a classy fougère…. January 4, 2023 at 10:35am Reply

    • Kim Cravatta: Hi Klass: Some bracing green scents to try are
      Annick Goutal Heure Exquise perfume or Parfums Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. Both have a tomato leaf green scent. January 2, 2023 at 3:58pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hi Kim, I hardly know any of the Annick Goutal offerings. There’s a boutique in Rotterdam where I work, I’ll go and give L’Heure Exquise a try, thank you!

        Le Sillage Blanc is a wonderful fragrance, so light and elegant, but I’m looking for something a bit more bracing this time… January 3, 2023 at 5:39am Reply

      • Alityke: How could I forget Sisley Eau de Campagne. Smells like a greenhouse January 3, 2023 at 10:55am Reply

      • Perfumatrix: I think the best bright-green, tomato-leaf scent (but also with clean spice) is Harissa from the Comme des Garcons Red series.

        Also, I don’t know if anyone is into stemmy yet indolic tropical-fruit green, but if you are, the Holy Grail there is the wonderful vintage Calyx by Prescriptives . . . January 3, 2023 at 1:02pm Reply

    • Emily: Two non-floral very different greens I completely adore are Dusita’s Erawan, a soft sunny late afternoon in a hay field, & Andrea Maack’s Coven, a muddy, foggy trek through some ivy-covered hills.

      Also heartily endorse the aforementioned Corsica Furiosa. Parfum d’Empire is dangerously collectible. My short list keeps getting longer the more of them I try.

      Malle’s Synthetic Jungle does have florals but is lovely & stemmy. Of all the scents I tried on nose noobs last year, that one was the most successful by far. Seems there’s a new hunger for greens out there. January 2, 2023 at 4:19pm Reply

      • Klaas: Erawan is a delight!! I wear it in summer. The mud and fog in Coven sound very atractive for winter, I’ll see if I can find it somewhere here. Thank you! January 3, 2023 at 5:42am Reply

    • Frances Groult: Good evening Klaas,

      You might enjoy Aqua di Parma Colonia Futura, I tested it and it is very green, very fougère, very much centered around sage, lavender and vetiver. Simple and with great sillage. They pride themselves in offering a “clean” option to classical fragrances, something I don’t really care for but I still think it is a nice take and it is definitely worth trying. They are usually generous with samples. Also, they have the shower gel which double as a shampoo and which is very nice (tried that one too). January 2, 2023 at 4:33pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hi Frances, I ADORE the classic Colonia from AdP although it has become a tad more flimsy over the years. I don’t know any of the flankers, I’ll give Colonia Futura a try; sage, lavender and vetiver are some of my favorite notes in perfumery. Thank you! January 3, 2023 at 5:45am Reply

    • Sebastian: Hi Klaas, a happy new year for you too!

      Fathom V (Beaufort): The absolutely grass-greenest perfume, over-the-top-green, with bitterness and earth and freshly cut twigs and all, extroverted and charming and eloquent, totally irresistible, and almost no flowers in spite of lily and jasmine, a must-try if you like that sort of thing at all.

      I love it, as I hope to have made obvious. January 2, 2023 at 4:41pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Sebastian, I sampled Fathom V a while ago, but it turned out quite floral on me. And there was a CK-one connection there that I just couldn’t get out of my nose……

        But what an original and poetic fragrance! January 3, 2023 at 5:50am Reply

      • Old Herbaceous: Yes, Fathom V! It’s spectacular. January 4, 2023 at 6:57pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: Do you like vintage scents? If you can stand a heavy galbanum green (but one that is exquisite), try Bandit by Robert Piguet, made by the infamous Germain Cellier as her fragrance for “butch” women (her term not mine).

      I also recommend Cristalle by Chanel (the edp is richer, and some say less green, than the more citric edt, but I prefer the edp which is a little warmer and less dry).

      Other vintage gorgeous greens are O! de Lancome, Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden and Jontue by Coty; all are grassy and herbaceous.

      For a modern citric green, I like Versense by Versace, and Tom Ford’s Vert Boheme (I think he did 3 green fragrances at once, of which Vert Boheme was one). If you like a green absinthe sort of herbaceousness, try Fou d”Absinthe by L’Artisan or Kilian Paris’s L’Heure Verte. January 2, 2023 at 9:07pm Reply

      • Klaas: I LOVE galbanum! Cristalle is a gem, the EDT is the one I prefer. I don’t mind a bit of dryness.

        I haven’t smelled Bandit in years!! I’ll try it again next time I’m at the department store. Thank you for all these recommendations! January 3, 2023 at 5:59am Reply

        • Sebastian: If you like Cristalle, you might like Chanel Paris-Edimbourg. Quite green and bracing, it’s got grass and mosses and seaspray, but it is not rough, still elegant. (Well, it is Chanel.) I sometimes think of it as a Cristalle pour homme. January 3, 2023 at 8:09am Reply

          • Klaas: Thanks Sebastian, I tried it and I really, really liked it, but it disappears on my skin. I spray it, I get a few minutes of green goodness and lavender, but before I can say mmmmmmmmmm – poof – it is gone……but gone completely! January 3, 2023 at 9:16am Reply

            • Sebastian: It doesn’t last long on me either. But it stays an hour or two, it is not gone in minutes. Disappointing for you, I’m sorry. Lucky that I’m more fortunate. January 3, 2023 at 1:02pm Reply

      • Old Herbaceous: Yes, TF did Vert Boheme, Vert des Bois, Vert d’Encens, and Vert de Fleur, as a mini collection. I find that Boheme and Fleur are more on the floral side, and Encens and Bois are drier and more woody. But your mileage may vary! January 4, 2023 at 7:00pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Hi! You’ve gotten many great recommendations in the prior comments, and I love many of those fragrances. Have you tried Balmain’s Vent Vert? It has gone through a number of reformulations but I think it has retained a strong, grassy greenness. Also, you might like one of St. Clair Scents’ offerings; I’m particularly fond of Gardener’s Glove and First Cut. January 4, 2023 at 7:05pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hello Herbacious, I love the names of these St. Clair Scents! Gardener’s Glove……wow! Will check them out for sure.

        Vent Vert is one that I remember from the past but I’m not familiar with the new formulation. I’ll have to give it a sniff!

        Thank you for these recommendations! January 5, 2023 at 5:37am Reply

    • Karenb: How about chanel 19? One of the best greens out there…. January 6, 2023 at 12:21pm Reply

      • Klaas: A masterpiece! And a favorite 😃
        But I’m looking for something less floral this time.

        Thanks Karen! January 7, 2023 at 11:23am Reply

    • Rakasa: One of the few truly Crisp Green scents still on the market is Sisley’s Eau de Campagne composed by Jean Claude Ellena in 1974. Another modern one that is subtly crisp in a different direction than Corsica Furiosa is Chanel’s Bel Respiro composed by Oliver Polge in 2007 though it is more herbal and natural than other Green scents released by Chanel.

      While different from Crisp Greens like Furiosa, I offer another to consider that is truly one of the most uniquely dimensional Green fragrances in existence; one I’ve come to treasure precisely for it’s verdant dimensions. Baruti’s Tindrer, composed by genius artisan perfumer Spyros Drosopoulos, walks one through a magical forest using a game of contrasts. It launches with a dew filled dawn soon dissolved by the heat of day, then moves on through contrasting Green dimensions illuminated by moments of sunshine alternating with strong thunderstorms; finally arriving where summer beneath the stars has arrived. Tindrer is Danish for ‘sparkle’, an exceptionally apt choice of name for such brilliantly conceived Green Perfume. One that no lover of green scents should miss. January 13, 2023 at 3:45pm Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Rakasa, congratulations on your excellent taste; I love both Eau de Campagne and Bel Respiro! Eau de Campagne, to me, is a masterpiece. I regret not knowing about it before, I can only imagine what it would have smelled like in the 80’s, when oakmoss was still allowed in copious quantities……

        Bel Respiro is a touch too pretty for me, but what freshness and such chic. One of the best Chanels I know…….

        But Tindrer!!!! I’ve been wanting to order a sample for the longest time, as it is listed as a green fragrance on the website of my favorite perfumery here in Amsterdam (the Perfume Lounge, check them out online! They ship abroad, also samples). Now I know I must go and smell it next time I stop by.

        My most recent green discovery is Encelade by Marc Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bische…..have you smelled it? It is truly, truly amazing!! Green and weird and a powerhouse. A poisonous cocktail of vetiver, rhubarb and fluorescent green. I was going to pull the trigger on a full bottle but will get my nose on Tindrer before I do so.

        Thank you so much for your recommendations! January 13, 2023 at 5:34pm Reply

        • Rakasa: Welcome… am a regular customer even here from the USA thx to the Perfume Lounge’s excellent service… they’ll do right by you. And thx for the tip on Encelade. I’ve been on the fence after the last few of Quentin’s creations seeming to not agree with my skin; but now I’ll have to check it out! Enjoy Tindrer – has become a spring season favorite of mine. Best, Caitlenn January 14, 2023 at 4:09am Reply

          • Rakasa: Sorry for the duplicate — having some challenges uploading. I’ll get it fixed. January 14, 2023 at 4:12am Reply

        • Rakasa: Welcome… am already a regular customer even here from the USA thx to the Perfume Lounge’s excellent service… they’ll do right by you. And thx for the tip on Encelade. I’ve been on the fence after the last few of Quentin’s creations seeming to not agree with my skin; but now I’ll have to check it out! Enjoy Tindrer – has become a spring season favorite of mine. Best, Caitlenn January 14, 2023 at 4:11am Reply

          • Klaas: Caitlenn, what a beautiful name!

            Encelade was an instant love for me. I smelled it and time stopped…….I had a very strong reaction to it, this hadn’t happened in a long time……it is the fragrance I didn’t know I needed 🙃

            It is also a divisive perfume, I think you’ll either love or hate it. To call it a powerhouse is an understatement: it grabs on to anything it can get it’s hand on and does not let go……for days!!! I still find it light an airy though, almost Jean Claude Elena style but amped up to the max.

            I decided that if I like Tindrer I’ll get both!!! And then pasta pesto for the rest of the month….. January 14, 2023 at 5:34am Reply

            • Caitlenn (aka: Rakasa): Why, thank you. I didn’t even realize till I’d said it till your reply noted that I’d dropped my nickname for my actual name. Seemed quite natural actually; after all the time spent with everyone here. Is the Scottish take; glad you like it.

              But ach, me laddie, you’re getting to be a downright dangerous influence, or did ye na know… indulgence breeds indulgence?!? You’ve got my Apple Pay finger literally twitching to trip the trigger, right this minute, to call home yet another Green I’ve been missing: Fueguia 1833 Patagonia’s Thays composed by Julian Bedel in 2010. Now there’s another I’d forgotten about that you may find enticing.

              Thays starts out crisp (stays so throughout) cycling all about a scintillating core of Osmanthus, as it drops into the strata of its earthy green matè bitterness. A most unique blend of bitter edge entwined with subtle creamy florally that never goes too far in either dimension. Instead it swaddles you up with a very intriguing Green Companion for the day. One I’ve had to forego for much too long, I’ll have ye know… thx to a skin barrier repair issue which made it suddenly begin to shift beyond bitter on me. At least we think we’re nigh to fixing that (fingers crossed!).

              Plus we’ll have none of this full on starvation regimen; as difficult as the world has become, each of us deserves some light in our daily lives!

              So do not forget to share your Perfume Lounge adventures, my friend. It will be interesting I’m sure, To date, only two Luca Maffei fragrances have melded well with my personal chemistry: Perris Monte Carlo Cedro di Diamond and Bergamotto di Calabria… January 14, 2023 at 3:41pm Reply

              • Klaas: Caitlenn, Fueguia is no longer available here in Holland……I don’t know the brand very well, but some of them look incredible!

                And I’m all for shameless indulgence from time to time. Life’s too short!!! January 16, 2023 at 8:53am Reply

    • Rakasa: One of the most uniquely dimensional Green fragrance I’ve come to love is Baruti’s Tindrer, composed by genius artisan perfumer Spyros Drosopoulos. It walks one through a magical forest using a game of contrasts. Launching with a dew filled dawn soon dissolved by the heat of day, then moving on through contrasting green dimensions illuminated by moments of sunshine that alternate through strong thunderstorms; finally arriving where a green summer glistens beneath the stars. Tindrer is Danish for ‘sparkle’, an exceptionally apt choice of name for such brilliantly conceived Green Perfume. One that no lover of green scents should miss. January 13, 2023 at 3:54pm Reply

  • Sniffsalot: Hello and Happy New Year to all! I am interested in a fragrance with chestnut as a note. Does anyone have any suggestions for me? January 2, 2023 at 9:18am Reply

    • JillS: hi, Sniffsalot. Dshperfumes had Chataignes du bois. I really like this scent in the Fall and Winter. You can order samples. January 2, 2023 at 10:18am Reply

      • Sniffsalot: Thank you so much! January 2, 2023 at 1:17pm Reply

    • Charlotte: Hi Sniffsalot, have you tried Noir Exquis by Bertrand Duchaufour for L’Artisan Parfumeur? It is sweet and rich with chestnut, coffee, and maple syrup. It makes me think of eating dollops of vanilla-scented whipped cream on top of pecan pie, but still manages to smell more masculine than feminine. January 2, 2023 at 10:31am Reply

      • Sniffsalot: He is a master perfumer! I must try this. I’m hoping it does not contain patchouli, because I do not care for it. Thank you so much for the suggestion. January 2, 2023 at 1:19pm Reply

        • Charlotte: Whoops this reply somehow dropped to the bottom of the page so re-posting 😛

          I’m a Duchaufour fan too and although I find Noir Exquis more ‘commercial’ smelling than many of his fragrances, it’s worth a try 🙂 I don’t think it has any patchouli. I hope you enjoy it! January 2, 2023 at 5:32pm Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hello Sniffsalot,
      A wonderful chestnut perfume is Cloon Keen’s Castaña. It also leans woody in the dry down. Worth trying. January 2, 2023 at 11:04am Reply

      • Sniffsalot: I love a wood dry down. This sounds wonderful! Thank you ! January 2, 2023 at 1:22pm Reply

      • Betty Ackerman: How about Maison Margiela REPLICA “ By the Fireplace”? It is warm, cozy and festive, with a chestnut accord over vanilla. It’s a favorite fall/winter scent for me. January 2, 2023 at 6:49pm Reply

    • Merylam: The different company Majaina sin is a light and airy citrussy gourmand with roasted chestnut notes January 2, 2023 at 2:02pm Reply

      • Sniffsalot: I just read about that one on the Luckyscent website. Does it have decent lasting power? I become frustrated by there and gone scents ! January 2, 2023 at 2:20pm Reply

        • Merylam: I have no complaints about it lasting, it is not ‘beastmode’ (something I personally hate), but it definitely wears well throughout the day (I woud say 6-8 hours). January 2, 2023 at 2:29pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Caron‘s Nuit de Noëlle, if it is still available! January 2, 2023 at 3:14pm Reply

      • Sniffsalot: Thank you so much for your suggestion. 😀 January 2, 2023 at 6:44pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: I have not tried it because it is quite new, but ELDO’s Frustration has a chestnut note. Also, you could try This is Her! by Zadig & Voltaire. Has anyone here tried either of these? January 2, 2023 at 9:17pm Reply

    • Caitlenn: Madeleine, composed by Fanny Bal (IFF) in 2020, for Masque Milano’s Le Donne Di Masque Collection offers a quite lovely chestnut accord that might be of interest.

      It wraps chestnut, cocoa and coffee in balance against buttery florals. Mme Bal wisely eschews sugar in favour of textural smells that evoke a patissiere without being literal. Both dimensions complement in a sophisticated way becoming more ambrosial, a fantasia of evocative scents that feel like walking past a brulerie. Reviewers have also called Madeleine one of the best gourmands of the last decade. January 14, 2023 at 4:00pm Reply

  • Jacqueline: Happy newyear!
    I’m desperately searching for a replacement for La Perla la perla( classic) maybe in niche?
    I already have eau du soir, knowing,scherrer.
    Thanks in advance! January 2, 2023 at 9:28am Reply

    • Aurora: Happy New Year Jacqueline. I too really liked La Perla, Miss Dior l’Original in esprit de parfum or vintage Miss Dior (quite plentiful on eBay, depending where you are and smells wonderful still) or vintage or recent Revlon Intimate is what I found as replacement. January 4, 2023 at 2:13pm Reply

      • Jacqueline Burghout: Thanks a lot!! January 4, 2023 at 4:35pm Reply

      • Jacqueline Burghout: Thank you so much! January 5, 2023 at 1:44am Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I don’t know La Perla, but have you tried Paloma Picasso or Diva? January 4, 2023 at 7:14pm Reply

      • Jacqueline: I have it, but thanks anyway! January 5, 2023 at 1:42am Reply

  • Ben Soussan Déborah: I’ve just discovered Cinnabar by Estée Lauder. I love it. I’m also fond of Rien intense incense by État libre d’orange and Le rêve d’ossian by Oriza Legrand. Wazamba by Parfum d’empire is fine too. Î like incense very much and I live in France.
    Maybe you could try one of these perfumes.
    Yours sincerely
    Déborah. January 2, 2023 at 9:36am Reply

  • carole macleod: Happy International Introvert’s Day! Finally a holiday that speaks to me 🙂

    Has anyone tried OJ Evernia? I am not a woman who can easily wear masculin fragrances-I know scents have no gender. But Eau Sauvage doesn’t suit me, neither does Habit Rouge, but I can wear Diorella and Shalimar, for example. Oddly Vetiver Extraordinaire suits me. So, has anyone tried Evernia and can you share any thoughts? January 2, 2023 at 9:45am Reply

    • Claire: Hi Carole Evernia is an absolute delight lovely and mossy (unsurprisingly) and has been really working well in the English damp-cold, alongside cashmere jumpers frosty mornings and the winter solstice. I say go for it. Xxx January 2, 2023 at 10:50am Reply

      • carole: Claire, thank you. I heard about it on a Sali Hughes IG reel, and then found a tester for very little $$$. I’m trying to put my collection in order, cuase I have more than I need, but this sounds lovely. Thank you for your insight 😉 January 2, 2023 at 11:17am Reply

    • Amanda M: Hello Carole.

      Introvert and proud here! (and HSP)
      Wonderful there’s a day for this. 😊
      Apologies as I’ve no information for you about Evernia…it sounds lovely though.

      Warmest New Year’s wishes from hot’n’sunny Australia. January 2, 2023 at 8:05pm Reply

      • carole: Hi, Amanda! It’s always good to see other introverts saying hello:) I’m in Canada, and always wanted to visit your country. IT’s cold and grey and dark here-no snow forecast for two weeks-YES!!! I loathe Canadian winters. They’re grim. If you feel like sharing anything about your city/town/place I’d be glad to hear 🙂 January 2, 2023 at 9:45pm Reply

        • Amanda M: Hi Carole,
          Thanks for your message. Oh yes, it must be very cold there in Canada right now – hard to imagine for me since it’s so warm here in Summer. You’d like it here as our winters are very mild usually. No snow to speak of. I’d love to experience a white Christmas though even just the once…My husband is British so he’s had plenty of those in the past.

          Hope you didn’t suffer from the terrible snowstorm that has affected US & Canada (some parts of?)
          I live in a tiny little country town, in North Central Victoria (Vic.bottom right of Australia), only 1300 or so residents, it’s very quaint. (and quiet, so it’s perfect for introverted HSP me!
          Sending you warmth across the miles 🔥🇦🇺 January 3, 2023 at 1:22am Reply

          • carole macleod: Amanda, you’ve taught me something new-I had never heard of HSP until you wrote about it-it’s a line of thinking that appeals to me. Including the fabrics against the skin-has to be just right, and also explains why I’m not so keen on metal against my skin:)

            We missed that snowstorm-we’re still cleaning up from a hurricane in Oct, that caused terrible devistation. We usually get the tail end of a hurricane in Sept, which brings higher temps and great windsurfing. This was totally different, and I’m amazed at what happened in the course of a few hours.

            Thank you for sending us warmth-it’s a cold, dank sort of day here, and we can use it 🙂

            Hope you keep posting here 🙂 January 4, 2023 at 11:57am Reply

            • Amanda M: Glad you found my information on HSP interesting. 😊 An American psychologist, Elaine Aron, first wrote about high sensitivity in people – she has a wonderful wealth of information on her website, as well as a great book called The Highly Sensitive Person – just look up her name.
              It’s a trait you’re born with and only fifth of the world’s population are highly sensitive. I only discovered its official term a few years back but it’s how I’ve been all my life! It made so much sense when I connected the pieces of the puzzle and it was very enlightening.

              Anyway, I do hope you’ve recovered alright from the hurricane – scary stuff indeed! Glad to hear you missed the ‘snowbomb’.

              Stay warm & safe. 🌺
              Amanda. X January 4, 2023 at 6:20pm Reply

              • carole: Amanda I’m totally checking out this book-thank you for telling me about it 🙂

                Sincere good wishes from Nova Scotia , which is a tiny town close to the Atlantic Ocean. January 4, 2023 at 8:18pm Reply

                • Amanda M: You’re welcome, Carole! I hope you find it as interesting as I did.
                  What a beautiful place Nova Scotia looks. I sheepishly admit I didn’t know much about it until I looked it up…☺️
                  The coastline is spectacular and reminds me of some of the UK coastlines.

                  Incidentally, I think it’s wonderful how the Internet (and this page!) brings people together from around the world.
                  I love Victoria’s website here. January 4, 2023 at 9:40pm Reply

                  • carole macleod: I’m in agreement with you re: the internet, and the community Victoria has cul;tivated 🙂 There’s another poster here, from Brisbane, and her username here escapes me at the moment but she posts regularly. I love to learn how people live in other countriesd-I never get to travel much and it’s so intriguing to me that when we’re suffering through a polar vortex you guys are suffering thru intense heat lol. But I hope you have no awful forest fires like two years ago. I love your TV programs too! Did you watch Aftertaste? I loved it. And all the Mystery Road series and versions. January 5, 2023 at 9:34am Reply

                    • Tourmaline: G’day Carole,

                      Tourmaline from Brisbane here!

                      I’d love to see snow sometime. Perhaps I’ll visit down south in the winter one day.

                      With kind regards,
                      Tourmaline January 11, 2023 at 7:11pm

      • Alityke: Glad to see there are other proud HSPs out there. I was diagnosed by my psychologist over a decade ago & it explained so much.
        I suspect may perfumistae are HSP & introverts. My M-B is INTJ despite my often speaking out or asking questions in educational or professional groups. January 5, 2023 at 4:55am Reply

        • Amanda M: Excellent! A very warm welcome and hello to you too.
          I’m sorry you were misdiagnosed…☹️ I’m INFJ. January 5, 2023 at 5:10am Reply

          • Alityke: Not misdiagnosed just having therapy for unrelated reasons. The therapist diagnosed that I am HSP after a few sessions. Explained a lot January 5, 2023 at 11:02am Reply

            • Amanda M: Oh, I apologise! I misread it…(I usually wear glasses for reading but neglected to this time)
              It’s such a relief isn’t it though, when it all makes sense, so I understand that. January 5, 2023 at 4:08pm Reply

        • Old Herbaceous: lol, I’m INTJ also! January 5, 2023 at 8:04am Reply

          • Alityke: Co-conspirators! I remember speaking about this on your blog x January 5, 2023 at 11:04am Reply

      • Caitlenn: And chilly USA East Coast Winter wishes back to you from this spirited member of the world’s INTP 1%!

        Here’s envying that I’m not down under in the warm with you right now… and my hopes that the coming year finds all of you, HSP or otherwise, productive, creative, healthy and happy… January 14, 2023 at 4:09pm Reply

        • Amanda M: Thank you Caitlenn! New Year’s wishes back to you too. Yes it’s very warm here right now in the Aussie summer.
          Stay cosy against the elements.
          Warmest wishes, Amanda. January 14, 2023 at 4:48pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Hi! Coincidentally, I just posted a short review of Evernia on my own blog, with other oakmoss-focused scents. I hope it’s okay to share the link; here it is: January 4, 2023 at 7:16pm Reply

      • carole: Old Herbaceous, you’re the best – thank you for telling me this! I found the review from the Take One Thing Off blog, too, and that helped. Suspect I’ll pull the trigger very soon. Have a great night! January 4, 2023 at 8:17pm Reply

  • Hamamelis: Another light, green and herbal scent is Mal-aimée by Parfum d’Empire. It starts very green (maybe a bit challenging…lots of weeds like nettle!) but quickly changes into a wonderful scent, with an orris base. January 2, 2023 at 10:28am Reply

  • Lolo: Happy New Year friends!! Infinite blessings to all 🙂 I’ve recently fallen in love with Liquid Imaginaires Blanche Bete perfume. I love how warm and milky it is and I would to hear any similar suggestions. I do suffer from migraines so anything too heavy can be too much for me. January 2, 2023 at 11:32am Reply

    • Perfumatrix: Good picks along those lines are Lumiere Blanche by Olfactive Studios, or Etra by Etro (which has an echo of my late-lamented Feu d”issey, the ultimate weird-and-wonderful milky scent). Also, Matin Calin by Comptoir Sud Pacifique, which is warm milk with vanilla, full stop. January 3, 2023 at 12:52pm Reply

  • Jane: I just discovered Deep Night by Ghost is still sold in the UK. I ordered a small bottle off eBay and as much as I remember it smelled just as good as the original. This surprised me as it seems a lot more available and affordable than it did back around 2000. Does anyone have a suggestion I can buy in the US? January 2, 2023 at 1:15pm Reply

  • Sostera: Best coffee fragrance? I’ve purchased motif olfactif De toma a zouma but found it to be sandalwood heavy which is odd because sandalwood is not listed in the notes. Perhaps the cedar reminds me of sandalwood? Anyway, I’m open to suggestions for other coffee scents. January 2, 2023 at 1:36pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: Best coffee fragrances, moi: Cafe Tuberosa by Atelier, Intense Cafe by Montale (caution: to be avoided if you dislike rose), Cardamom Coffee by Lush (you must like cardamom, obvi), and my favourite, the sexy, opulent Cafe Noir by Ava Luxe (a lush oriental composition with a startlingly-perfect lavender open). January 2, 2023 at 9:24pm Reply

      • Sostera: Thank you so much for the recommendations! Wow, Ava Luxe sounds amazing! I’ve been meaning to try more Aftelier, too. Montale intense cafe was a scent I was looking at, as well as their ristretto intense. I have tried Lush’s cardamom coffee and unfortunately (or fortunately for my wallet) I seem to be anosmic to it. January 2, 2023 at 9:43pm Reply

    • Alityke: I was on a major coffee note hunt in early 2022. I was searching for a straight up “ opening a new pack of roasted coffee beans” scent. I found exactly what I was looking for in Coffee Addict EdP by Theodoros Kalotinis. Not expensive, ships almost anywhere very quickly with samples of other of his fragrances. Coffee Addict is a straight up espresso scent. Excellent longevity too. January 3, 2023 at 5:05am Reply

      • Sebastian: Do you notice some milk, sugar or caramel in Coffee Addict? Like a sweetened milk coffee? (The note list mentions caramel, which makes me wary.)

        I’d like a really black, bitter, absolutely not-sweet-at-all coffee scent. Sort of the coffee equivalent of Vanille Havane. When you were on your coffee note hunt, did you by any chance come across something like that (if Coffee Addict is not it)? January 3, 2023 at 3:20pm Reply

        • Alityke: I find Coffee Addict to be straight up roast beans/ espresso. No sugar, caramel or milkiness at all to my nose. I don’t find any cocoa either. I’m guessing the caramel note enhances the “roasted” coffee as caramel can have a bitterness. Same with cocoa it has a bitterness to it.
          Looks to be out of stock at present. You could wait until it comes back in & try a sample in the discovery box, see how you find it January 4, 2023 at 3:32am Reply

          • Sebastian: I’ll keep an eye out for it! January 4, 2023 at 2:07pm Reply

          • Tourmaline: I have to try Coffee Addict. You can’t beat that aroma of roasted coffee beans! January 11, 2023 at 7:15pm Reply

      • Sostera: Thank you so much! Sounds like what I was looking for and I’ll try it when I can. Thanks again! January 4, 2023 at 7:00pm Reply

  • Ruby Ott: Mourning Atelier Orange Sanguine.
    Now that Atelier is no longer available for purchase in the U.S., I am sadly hoarding the last drops of my last bottle of Orange Sanguine.
    Can I find a replacement that I’ll love as much as this last little bottle of sunshine? January 2, 2023 at 2:22pm Reply

    • Merylam: The new eau de parfum version of guerlain AA mandarine basilic forte scratches a similar itch for me as orange sanguine did. I am personally mourning pomelo paradis, it was just sunshine in a bottle and I will miss it dearly. I cannot understand what is going on with atelier cologne. January 2, 2023 at 2:32pm Reply

      • Robin L. Ott: Thank you, Merylam! I will try that!
        Neither can I understand what is going on with Atelier! I have happily kept a bottle or two of a few of their fragrances in my collection for a long time and now–gone! But it was this lovely blood orange scent that I couldn’t go long without. January 2, 2023 at 4:41pm Reply

    • Klaas: Hey Ruby, maybe they can ship from France?

      My favorite Sunshine-in-a-bottle fragrance is Eau de Neroli Dore by Hermes, which may be more available in the US. Though I have no idea how it compares to Orange Sanguine.

      Another glorious orange fragrance is Azemour by Parfum d’Empire. Juicy, mouthwatering and sun drenched oranges…..

      I hope you find something you like! January 3, 2023 at 6:05am Reply

      • Ruby Ott: Thank you Klaas. I looked up your suggestions and they sound like I might like them!
        I always bought Orange Sanguine at Sephora, then they just didn’t carry it anymore. The Atelier website has this tiny announcement on it, “Our site no longer ships in the USA” January 4, 2023 at 12:27pm Reply

        • Klaas: Oh no! That’s too bad. Have a look at the comments below, there might be ways for you to get your hands on a bottle anyway, and for a good prize, too.

          It’s always hard to find a perfect substitute for a fragrance one used to love, but maybe these can evoke the same atmosphere as Orange Sanguine. Good luck! January 4, 2023 at 12:55pm Reply

    • pfsh: I was just thinking about Orange Sanguine today! I was smelling Chypre Azural by Les Indemodables and it reminded me of my reaction to OS.

      Chypre Azural has the most amazing bitter orange peel opening that lasts and lasts. Truly delightful. It has been awhile since I smelled OS so my comparison may not be accurate, but if OS is a color pencil rendering of an orange, CA is a hyperealistic rendering in oils. January 3, 2023 at 12:18pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: I am puzzled . . . Atelier Cologne offerings are still available and plentiful on online grey market sites (at least the main one beginning with F and ending with net) in the United States; I just confirmed that. And they have several sizes of Orange Sanguine at good prices. (I am considering pulling the trigger on an FB of Bois Blonds.) So there are still sources for the brand at this time in the US. January 3, 2023 at 12:36pm Reply

    • carole macleod: There’s Bond Little Italy, which is such a realistic orange-available at discounters for a decent price, in a perfect orange start shaped bottle. And there’s Mandarine Ambre, from Hermes. I haven’t tried your Atelier line, so I cannot compare, but these are two orange scents I love. Good luck! Also, what if you ordered from a Canadian source-Etiket in Montreal sells this line. Just a thought . January 4, 2023 at 12:09pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Atelier des Ors has a lovely group of fragrances called the White Collection. One of them, Choeur des Anges, has a very lovely blood orange note that might remind you of Orange Sanguine. I love it, and also Nuda Veritas from the same group. January 4, 2023 at 7:21pm Reply

  • Nicole: Happy new year! For nearly 20 years, I wore L’instant de Guerlain. I adore the blend of white florals with vanilla and amber and used to get compliments on it all the time. Last year, though, the longevity and projection changed for me. Now the scent disappears on me after two hours and my family have to literally sniff my pulse points to detect it. I suppose my body chemistry has changed with age. But I still love the scent!

    I’ve tried numerous white florals, but they’ve all lacked that powdery dry down. I thought I might try Samsara as I flirted with that scent when I was likely too young to be wearing it, but I can’t get an EDP sample of it anywhere. (Incidentally, what is happening to Guerlain? Is this because of the LVMH acquisition?) January 2, 2023 at 3:46pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: You may be interested in trying Narciso Poudre (in the beige cube bottle) by Narciso Rodriguez or perhaps A Drop d’Issey? Both have a white-flowery powder drydown (if you are looking for a more gourmand powdery scent, I recommend Sweet Oriental Dream by Montale, which is unabashedly strong and the best almond-gourmand powder scent one could ask for, with a strong marzipan note). January 3, 2023 at 12:43pm Reply

      • Nicole: Thanks so much for the recommendations! I’m tracking down samples… January 11, 2023 at 11:41pm Reply

  • Charlotte: I’m a Duchaufour fan too and although I find it more ‘commercial’ smelling than many of his fragrances, it’s worth a try 🙂 I don’t think it has any patchouli. I hope you enjoy it! January 2, 2023 at 5:30pm Reply

  • hélène: Bonne année ! I’m a yoga teacher looking for a scent that would not feel too ‘perfumey’. I’m wearing Philosykos or Eau des sens right now, also love Comme des Garçons Avignon. Any recommendation for an aromatic fragrance ? I would like to smell like a spa full of eucalyptus branches and jasmine flowers. January 2, 2023 at 6:56pm Reply

    • carole: Hi, Helene,

      Sorry for the lack of accents – I need to learn how to do that. What about Mirto di Paneria, by Acqua di Parma? It has some eucalyptus, and myrtle. It smells so good! And if you’re teaching yoga-what about the body products? Their shower gel lasts all day, especially this particular fragrance. January 2, 2023 at 9:49pm Reply

      • Aly: Carole, This also sounds like just what I need. Thank you – ordered! January 3, 2023 at 4:31am Reply

        • carole macleod: Oh gosh, ALy-I hope you like it lol. I really do! January 3, 2023 at 8:47am Reply

      • Hélène: Thank you so much ! I will give it a try 🙂 January 3, 2023 at 6:18am Reply

    • Klaas: Hey there, Hinoki by Comme des Garcons is great also. No jasmine though, but the woody, eucalyptussy spa-vibe is there for sure! It smells very natural and is quite discreet, so it won’t feel as if you wear someting too ornate or distracting during your classes. January 3, 2023 at 6:11am Reply

      • Hélène: Great it was on my list ! Thank you for your advice. January 3, 2023 at 6:19am Reply

    • irem: Hello Hélène, bonne année! I would highly recommend trying Clarins Eau Dynamisante. I cannot say it smells of eucalyptus and jasmine flowers, but it is not perfumey and definitely smells like a spa to me. All the body products (shower gel, shower foam, deodorant, body lotion) are wonderful too! January 3, 2023 at 4:45pm Reply

  • Joy Erickson: I will be spending a month in Paris in April-May. Are there perfume stores that are generous with free samples? Often a spritz on a card is not enough to get the full effect of a perfume. I recall the last time I was there, I stepped into a Diptique shop in the Marais. The customer service representative gave me a generous sample that I sprayed generously for a few days.
    Thank you. January 2, 2023 at 7:23pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Joy, I’m half-Frech, brands seem more reluctant to hand out samples these days but you might try Parfums de Nicolai, they are at least very generous with samples with purchase when you buy their sample set and Oriza L. Legrand was also a good experience for me. January 6, 2023 at 1:44am Reply

    • Johaboha: Jovoy is very generous too January 6, 2023 at 5:48am Reply

  • Therése: Hello lovely people!

    I’m a fan of Chanel Cuir de Russie, but I can’t afford it at the moment. Can anyone recommend other elegant leather perfumes? January 3, 2023 at 7:12am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Try ebay! I bought a dirt cheap bottle of Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur—very stylish! Or Hermès Agar Ébène or Cuir d‘Ange (probably more expensive than Chanel!). There are plenty of leathers out there, really meaty ones like vintage Balmain Jolie Madame. I think many people buy a leather scent and realize they cannot stomach it, then they sell. January 3, 2023 at 9:43am Reply

      • Therése: I’ll try Ebay. Thank you for the suggestion! January 3, 2023 at 2:03pm Reply

    • pfsh: Suede Pony by Boy Smells won’t scratch the same CdR itch, but it is a nice, light suede if you like leathers in general. It also comes in an affordable 10ml format!

      Other elegant leathers i enjoy are Violette Volynka (great contrast between the sweet violet and dark leather) and Cuir d’Ange (powdery, inside of an expensive handbag, very elegant) from Hermes.

      For a more fruity take on leather, I enjoyed LV’s Noveau Monde.

      Also seconding OnWingsofSaffron recommendation to trawl the secondhand market1 January 3, 2023 at 12:15pm Reply

      • Therése: Cuir d’Ange sounds interesting, I will give it a try. Thank you! January 3, 2023 at 2:09pm Reply

    • Perfumatrix: How about vintage Tabac Blond by Caron? If you cannot find or afford that one, Dua fragrances makes an excellent dupe/re-creation of it called Blonde Tabacum for around $55 USD. Despite the name, this is a leather fragrance (Ernest Daltroff, from 1919 or so). Fragrantica lists the notes as leather, carnation, lime blossom, iris, vetiver, ylang-ylang, cedar, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, musk. January 3, 2023 at 1:21pm Reply

      • Therése: I tried Tabac Blond many years ago and thought it too smokey, but I will give it another chance. Thank you! January 3, 2023 at 2:07pm Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hi Therése,
      Elegant leather perfumes tend to be expensive. I could provide lots of examples. Instead, I would suggest Azuree (Esté Lauder) as an elegant perfume that settles into a nice leather in the dry down. It’s very reasonably priced. January 4, 2023 at 1:23pm Reply

      • Therése: That sounds interesting, I will give it a try! Thank you! January 4, 2023 at 2:16pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Therese: I second Silvermoon’s suggestion for Estée Lauder Azurée, it’s been in production all these years for a reason and the current formulation is very good I find. January 4, 2023 at 2:01pm Reply

      • Sebastian: I agree.

        Another recommendation, much lighter in character than Azurée, would be Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé. Unobtrusive, elegant, great for daily wear, far less expensive than Chanel and available in a 15 ml travel bottle as well. One of my favorite leather scents. January 4, 2023 at 2:15pm Reply

        • Therése: I have never heard of this brand, I will see if I can find a sample of the scent. Thank you! January 4, 2023 at 4:01pm Reply

      • Therése: I am absolutely trying Azurée! Thank you! January 4, 2023 at 2:27pm Reply

    • Mary B: Hello, I enjoy leather perfumes and my favorites are Bottega Veneta, Bottega Veneta Eau Velours, Serge Lutens Daim Blonde and Hermes Kelly Caleche. Kelly Caleche is by Jean Claude Ellena. It is very wearable and is long lasting. January 4, 2023 at 8:17pm Reply

      • Therése: I’ve heard great things Kelly Caleche and Bottega Veneta! I will try all of your suggestions. Thank you! January 5, 2023 at 12:24pm Reply

        • Mary B: Therese, I didn’t realize the Bottega Veneta perfumes were discontinued and the Daim Blonde is now in the bell jar and can only be bought in Paris. I live in the southwestern US and often blind buy used perfumes on auction sites or on the grey market sites. I can’t spend huge amounts of money and lots of brands aren’t available here. I just got out Ted Lapidus Rumba again and love it! One of the perfumers is Jean Claude Elena who also made Kelly Caleche. It is available on the grey market internet sites for 17 dollars for 100 ml. It has leather. I didn’t like it when I first got it but now that it is cold and has been sitting I love it! It is a Per-fume with a capital P! You might like it, too. January 31, 2023 at 8:35pm Reply

  • joan ramirez: Hello:
    I love all of your favorites. I’m currently wearing two: Moschino and 24K Rose. One for day and the other for evening events.

    I have a request: I’m an author embarking on a new mission: A series of historical suspense novels that include scent. WHAT do the fragrances that you are using conjure up in your mind? How do they make you feel? I’d be so grateful for responses and thank Bois de Jasmin for this creative question. Joan Ramirez January 3, 2023 at 10:42am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello: Best of luck for your project, the perfume that I’ve worn most often and the most evocative to me is l’Heure Bleue, it conveys mystery and reminds me of Paris by night, the city where I was born. January 4, 2023 at 1:54pm Reply

  • joan ramirez: I’m so sorry. I got so excited I forgot to give you my email to respond:
    [email protected]
    Joan Ramirez January 3, 2023 at 10:44am Reply

  • Perfumatrix: Perhaps someone can help me with my wish list? I am forever on the hunt for two things: One, the perfect animalic musk. I love things like Muscs Kublai Khan, but don’t have the budget for the vintage bell jars; so far, my most prized musk possession is Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire; something along those lines would be ideal. I also regularly wear things like Kiehl’s Musk. I don’t like vegetal, thin, sharp musks like Goutal’s Musc Nomade or Oncle Serge’s Clair de Musc. I’m in the US.

    Second, the perfect liquorice (licorice) fennel or anise. I can’t wear Lolita Lempicka because everything they make has Calone in it, which is an abomination unto the gods. Black Vines by Kerosene was closer, but is VERY harsh and masculine (I am female and wear lots of masculine fragrances, but Black Vines was too much even for me, and I wear vintage Opium, Kouros, and Bal a Versailles!) Brin de Reglisse by Hermes also did not work. I am looking for niche, cheapie, any recommendations at all that are relatively easy to find and do not cost the earth. I like Guerlain Acqua Allegoria Anisia Bella very much, but it disappears on me in 20 minutes. January 3, 2023 at 1:13pm Reply

    • Emily: Have you tried Bruno Acampora’s Musc? I, too, treasure Musc Tonkin & covet MKK, & his precious oil vial completes my trifecta of favorites. January 3, 2023 at 4:03pm Reply

    • Hayley: I remember chypree mousse by oriza l legrand being very strong fennel, it is very green scent though which might not be what you’re looking for. January 3, 2023 at 4:14pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi: I like Kiehl’s original musk too, and another musk I wear is Cacharel Noa, Victoria reviewed it positively, of course it’s not in the league of MKK but it’s easy to wear and so affordable, there is also Les Créations de Monsieur Dior Diorling, a jasmine leather I favor, I got my 100ml bottle for £20 on and I’m halfway through it so it’s one of my most worn.

      Anis: Caron Aimez-Moi has what I call a pastis note, quite strong and it’s an elegant perfume I find, longevity: the bottle I have lasts very well, I hope it is still the case. January 4, 2023 at 8:05am Reply

      • Perfumatrix: Aurora, thank you! I wear Cacharel Noa and like it, but I am looking for something more animalic. I like the floral musks that Narciso Rodriguez does, but again, I want a musk that is dirtier/sexier/stronger etc.

        I tried Aimez-Moi a while ago and don’t remember having strong feelings about it. I will see if I can find a decent decant. Is it still in production? If so, is there much difference between older batches and present? January 4, 2023 at 3:13pm Reply

        • Aurora: Aimez-moi is still in production but I’m sorry I don’t know if or how different it is today. January 5, 2023 at 6:51am Reply

    • AnnieA: Perfumatrix, I agree that calone is an abomination. Try Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers if it’s still available. January 4, 2023 at 8:29am Reply

    • Silvermoon: Hi Perfumatrix!
      I remember smelling MKK for the first time. I was in Sydney. I almost laughed out loud in delight! Anyway, have you tried L’Ombre Fauve (Pierre Guillaume)? It’s ambery but also has a distinct animatic smell. It’s rather lovely. January 4, 2023 at 1:31pm Reply

    • Sebastian: For fresh fennel, you can’t beat Haeckel’s Pegwell Bay. Don’t know about availability in the US, though, it’s a firm from the UK.

      Licorice I can’t speak to. Have I ever even tried anything with licorice in it? Don’t recall.

      If you like MKK, you’ll like Dzing! (L’Artisan) if you ever come across it. And Marlou Carnicure is reportedly somewhat like Musc Tonkin. (Haven’t tried it.) January 4, 2023 at 2:30pm Reply

      • Perfumatrix: Sebastian, I love Dzing!, but it is quite hard to find in the US at any rate. I have heard of Marlou Carnicure but have never tried it. I will see about Pegwell Bay. Thank you for responding–very helpful! January 4, 2023 at 3:15pm Reply

        • Laura Groves: I have a travel size of Pegwell Bay and would be willing to send it to you (for free) if there is a way to do so (?). I tried it based on a video by the great Wafts from the Loft duo but sadly it does not work on me. I live in Europe but am travelling to the US at the end of the month and could post it then. January 5, 2023 at 4:37am Reply

          • Sebastian: Laura, could you please get in touch with me, so I can ask you something having to do with perfumes in the US? If you don’t mind, I will mail Victoria and give her permission to tell you my contact data. Would that be acceptable to you? January 5, 2023 at 3:43pm Reply

            • Laura Groves: Hi Sebastian, yes, that would be absolutely fine. Happy to speak with you! January 6, 2023 at 3:28am Reply

              • Sebastian: Thank you. I’ve written to Victoria. January 6, 2023 at 3:50am Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: You might like Réglisse Noire, by 1000 Flowers. You can order from the brand’s website but I’m not sure about shipping to the US. January 4, 2023 at 8:23pm Reply

  • Tat: Hello, I’m looking for a perfume with osmanthus/sweet tea olive as the primary/dominant note… it’s my sister’s favorite scent and she’s had trouble finding one that actually smells like osmanthus once it has dried down. Preferably no vanilla notes… though apricot notes are ok since it smells similar. Thanks in advance! January 3, 2023 at 7:46pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Tat, Victoria listed three osmanthus fragrances recently, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, The Different Company Osmanthus and Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus, I’ll add L’Occitane Osmanthus but it doesn’t last very well, it’s very natural-smelling though, so I apply 10 or 12 sprays. January 4, 2023 at 8:23am Reply

    • Kayliz: I remember loving Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d‘Empire — here are the notes I wrote: Osmanthus, tea, fresh hay, and leather in the drydown. Beautiful.
      Have fun sampling! January 4, 2023 at 9:14am Reply

    • Perfumatrix: Tat, I second Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d’Empire–wonderful! Also, there is a strong osmanthus note, as I recall, in Oncle Serge’s Nuit de Cellophane (I did a review on it under Nuit de Cellophane’s entry on Fragrantica). Cheers! January 4, 2023 at 12:24pm Reply

  • David: I really like vintage perfumes like Bandit, Miss Dior, Jolie Madame, Cabochard, and Tabac Blond. However, I am getting tired of vintage hunting. Does anyone have a recommendation for a modern, currently available perfume that has the depth and sexiness of those perfumes? (And if anyone knows if the modern reformulations of the perfumes I mentioned are worthwhile, I’d appreciate haring that opinion). January 4, 2023 at 3:52pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Estée Lauder’s Azurée is wonderful. And I think the 2019 reissues of Cabochard, both edt and edp, are pretty good. I’ve never smelled the true vintage of it, though, just the earlier reformulation that Luca Turin panned, before the 2019 ones. January 4, 2023 at 8:30pm Reply

      • David: I have always wanted to try Azurée. That’s a great suggestion. And I will also look for reformulations of Cabochard. Thank you! January 5, 2023 at 1:40pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello David, two houses, Eris and Les Indémodables have a reputation for being inspired by the great classics but I haven’t tried them. To me Cartier La Panthère has this classic aspect as does Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse. January 5, 2023 at 7:12am Reply

      • David: Thank you, Aurora, for the suggestions. I am going to try all your suggestions this year. January 5, 2023 at 1:42pm Reply

    • Jessica: I also love those vintage perfumes! Great taste :). Have you tried Superstitious from Fredric Malle? It’s more aldehydic along the lines of Arpege but with that classic vintage dry down and wonderful silage. You may also like Magie Noir which I beige you can still purchase on Lancôme’s website. Estée Lauder Private Collection is green like Bandit but more floral. I also think Chanel Cuir de Russie has a vintage feel similar to Tabac Blond. Lastly, I would recommend the classic Dior’s like Dioressence and Diorissimo. January 5, 2023 at 10:21pm Reply

      • David: Hi Jessica! Thank you for all the great suggestions! I have heard a lot about Magie Noir, so that’s the one I will check out first. Happy New Year! January 8, 2023 at 4:54pm Reply

  • joan ramirez: Aurora:
    Merci. May I contact you offline?
    joan ramirez
    author January 4, 2023 at 4:29pm Reply

  • Laura Groves: Happy New Year! I had just been reading about Memo’s new release, Sherwood, this morning. And then a sample came in the mail (with my “travel journal” box of samples from this beautiful brand). I am such a fragrance newbie but I really love this scent so far (5 minutes in), it seems cosy without being blancmange-bland and also without being sugary. Maybe spicy wood? Has anyone else tried this scent? PS. I cannot help but note that my husband is from near the real-life Sherwood Forest and it is a shadow of its former self. But the illustration on the sample card is gorgeous. January 5, 2023 at 4:29am Reply

  • Myra: I’m looking to add a new fragrance to my tiny collection. My signature scent is Apres L’Ondee Guerlain, with Prada Infusion D’Iris and Le Petit Guerlain (now discontinued) following closely behind. I obviously love Iris but I’m intrigued by rose scents – I love the scent of my Smith’s rosebud salve for example. I like scents that wear closely to the skin as I have a strong sense of smell. I’m drawn to vintage, ethereal scents. Any recommendations would be much appreciated, thanks! January 5, 2023 at 12:55pm Reply

    • Myra: *Petit Guerlain is a fragrance intended for children. January 5, 2023 at 12:58pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Myra: I second Hélène’s recommendation for Annick Goutal, I’ll add Marie Jeanne perfumes, a newish brand from Grasse, France, their perfumes are light and very natural smelling. For rose perfumes I think Diptyque l’Eau Rose might appeal to you, I think the EDT would be a better fit for you than the EDP. January 6, 2023 at 2:21am Reply

  • Hélène: I think you should try Annick Goutal L’heure exquise. To me it’s the sequel to Après l’Ondée. Maybe try Un matin d’orage too ! January 5, 2023 at 5:18pm Reply

  • Emilie: Happy new year everyone 🙂 A strange thing happened recently : I usually dislike sweet and sugary perfumes, but these days I find myself craving gourmand and comforting fragrances ! I tried an old sample of LPRN ma première robe by Guerlain and really enjoyed it, and would like to find something similar but not as recognizable or worn by so many people. Any ideas ? Thank you ! January 10, 2023 at 3:36pm Reply

  • Sara C: I’m wondering if anyone can recommend a perfume similar in wear and character to L’ete en Douce by L’artisan Parfumeur. I find it so soft and hazy, and the gentle mix of florals with sweet hay and ripe fruit is beautiful to me. It reminds me of the air on a carefree warm summer day.

    Some initial thoughts I have about my own question: Nicolai Week-End is similar in some respects but much more bracing in character. La Chasse Aux Papillons is similar in other respects but more literally floral. I do love La Chasse and own it.

    I’m a little late to this January post, so if it’s gone quiet I’ll repost this question next time around. January 20, 2023 at 11:52am Reply

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