Isabelle Doyen: 23 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It seems that all has been said on the fig theme, from the gold standards L’Artisan Premier Figuier and Diptyque Philosykos, to the surprisingly creamy milky-woody Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée; from the fresh and musky Marc Jacobs Men to the retro floral Ellie by Ellie D. Although these selections merely highlight some of the most interesting modern compositions, one thing is certain—fig is a note that has been used extensively over the past decade, both in niche launches (Nez à Nez Figues et Garçons) and in big prestige releases (Thierry Mugler Womanity.) Yet in studying Ninféo Mio, I was amazed to discover that Isabelle Doyen, Annick Goutal’s in-house perfumer, once again managed to create something interesting and unusual, an elegant woody fig with a surprisingly strong green character.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

With all the new launch samples piling up on my desk, I instead find myself reflecting upon my old favorites. I have always admired the work of Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal, whose contributions range from the startling simpilicity and power of Eau du Fier, to the ethereal beauty of Eau de Ciel, and to the baroque richness of Songes. Un Matin d’Orage feels like yet another page in the Annick Goutal album, a rendition of gardenia that blends the starkness of photorealism with the mystery of abstract art.

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The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Green like unripe mirabelle plums, tart like lemon meringue and sheer like a silk scarf, Annick Goutal Le Chèvrefeuille is one of those fragrances that makes me smile contentedly. It is the essence of everything serene and lighthearted, a fragrance that satisfies yearnings for those first mild days of spring. On the other hand, its lightness and the lack of sharpness associated with citrus makes it ideal for the warm days of summer. Among Annick Goutal single flower compositions (Néroli, Des Lys, Le Jasmin, Le Muguet and La Violette), which were created by perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal in 2002, Le Chèvrefeuille is undoubtedly my favorite, both for its effervescent personality and impressionistic rendition of honeysuckle. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Immortelle, an everlasting dune flower with a distinctive savory maple syrup aroma, is not an easy note. It tends to dominate with its rich spicy warmth and dark sweetness. Annick Goutal Sables (1985) is brilliant, because it manages to build on immortelle without either twisting it beyond recognition or allowing it to assume a rustic demeanor. Even after experiencing the great immortelle compositions like Christian Dior Eau Noire and the playful ones like L de Lolita Lempicka, Sables still holds the crown for being the perfect example of a perfume based on immortelle. …

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