Annick Goutal: 24 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The first time I smelled Vétiver by Annick Goutal (1981), I was taken by the affinity between vetiver and marine notes. The earthy richness of the former, marked by the grapefruit bitterness complements the iodine smell of the seashore resulting in the aroma of driftwood covered with the wet shreds of seaweed.

The vetiver focused fragrances have a devout following among both men and women, with Guerlain Vétiver (1961) setting the gold standard with its elegant rendition of the balsamic root suspended between the transparent citrusy top accord and the spiced tobacco base. It maintains the Guerlinesque refinement with a glimpse of its seductive smile. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Songes by Annick Goutal… Dreams is what every new year begins with… Dreams that one has a chance to travel to a new place, to discover new things, to meet new people and to change one’s own shortcomings. The very word—dreams, songes, sogni, mechty, or whatever other language one uses—has a character of something ethereal and yet intoxicating, capturing a moment of complete oblivion. Annick Goutal Songes is appropriately named, because losing oneself in its warm cloud of white jasmine delicately supported by the sweet woods is not unlike being in a dream-like state, when the whole world is submerged in the haze of intense contemplation.

Some of Annick Goutal fragrances are all about subtlety and perhaps too much so, from the transparent green freshness of Duel and the rainwater on violets of Eau de Ciel to the overly delicate whisper of Mandragore. However, Songes is unlike anything in the line, as it possesses a certain full-bodied richness that speaks of seduction and enchantment. The multifaceted top accord structured around jasmine breaks as if into the peals of bells. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Hazy and gentle, Annick Goutal Duel seems inappropriately named, as more than anything it calls to mind opponents who would rather exchange polite remarks than gunshots. It has a certain subtlety that delicately hints at its more forceful aspects, wrapping them in sweetness of violet. On the one hand, it may register as too subtle, yet, on another, it has the same charm as the pastels. Thus, whenever Annick Goutal fragrances are compared to the watercolors, I always think of Duel as a good example of such an analogy.

Created by Isabelle Doyen in collaboration with Camille Goutal, Annick Goutal’s daughter, Duel is a fragrance with a romantic air. Its violet tinged coolness of iris paired with crisp greenness of maté conjures a vision of the Belle Époque salon set with preparations for tea.  …

Continue reading →

Among quintessential summer perfumes, Eau d’Hadrien rules supreme. Created by perfumer Henri Sorsana and Annick Goutal in 1981, it is a crisp and effervescent fragrance that relies on the combination of lemon and grapefruit underscored by basil and cypress to capitalize on the burst that citrus can give to fragrances. The icy pearls of citrus notes scatter on the skin and provide a sensation of cold breeze. While the sparkling quality of citrus is wont to be shortlived, as it begins to vanish, dry piney notes of cypress embrace citrus, preventing its chilly glitter from melting away. Moreover, a touch of ylang ylang lends a subtle sweetness that combines perfectly with tart citrus notes. For me, Eau d’Hadrien is a walk down the sun lit road, where the heat of the sun competes with the cool wind swaying the trees lining the path.

Eau d’Hadrien soap is wonderful, and if one enjoys fresh citrusy scents, it will surely delight. The soaps are 4.2 oz each, beautifully packaged and decorated. Their strong scents linger pleasantly, making any of the soaps a great addition to the morning shower.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky. Old Town II. 1902. Oil on canvas. 52 x 78.5 cm. Musée National d’Art Moderne, Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France.