In Your Opinion: 314 posts

Do you classify fragrances as daytime vs evening? Do you save some perfumes to wear in the evening, while preferring others for the morning?

I love the scenes in old movies when the heroine, dressed in a floor sweeping gown, reaches for a perfume bottle to apply a couple of drops of perfume before stepping out with her dashing cavalier to conquer the world. In my fantasies, I am that bejeweled woman, wrapped in satin and silks, who nonchalantly reaches for a crystal flacon of her Shalimar parfum. Needless to say, the reality often differs from fantasy, and regretfully, silks and jewels rarely make an appearance in the usual course of my day, with jeans and lab coats taking precedence. However, while I may be lacking in diamond tiaras, I always make a point of saving time for applying parfum. I do not necessarily reserve Shalimar or other rich orientals solely for the evening, but there is something deliciously decadent about applying the parfum after a long day is over but while the night is still young.

Photograph from vintage.glam-2

How much is too much for a bottle of perfume?

Of course, it all depends on what that bottle contains. For me there is much more than a quantitative difference between a bottle of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Armani Prive La Femme Bleue, which cost about the same per ounce. Nevertheless, as I have been browsing through the new launches over the past year, time and again I felt considerable sticker shock. Tom Ford Santal Blush is $475 for 100ml, Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady is $300 for 100ml, Cartier IV L’Heure Fougueuse is $275 for 75ml, etc… While I completely understand why some price increases might be inevitable due to the rising costs of raw materials and other factors, the increasing price of perfume, especially in the niche sector, make me very apprehensive.

Photo: Indian bangles purchased in Edison, NJ–one of the most affordable delights at $1 for a set of 10. Photography by VeraKL

What fragrance terms do you find confusing? About which perfume concepts would you have liked to learn more?

Amber, musk, petally, floralcy, butyric, crisp…. Fragrance professionals struggle with the language, with which to describe perfume, and it does not help matters that the information available to the consumers is often extremely confusing. Among the perfume adjectives that I have always found confusing (and still do) is soapy, which can mean lots of different things to different people.

What trend would you like to see in fragrances? And what current trend would you like to go away?

Here is my wishlist: I would love to see a trend for woody orientals that do not rely on candied, sugary notes for their richness. My other wish is for fruity chypres. A recent launch by Annick Goutal, Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille, reminded me how much I love this genre of fragrance, in which the delicious sweetness of fruit gets tempered by mossy-woody notes.

My negative wishlist is very long. Bland florals, cotton candy and lollipops, copycats of bestsellers–I would like to avoid all of these, but my biggest wish is for the reversal of the current trend of quantity over quality. The insane number of yearly fragrance launches (most of which smell identical) makes the marketplace confusing and the selection incoherent. Finally, I really hope that I do not have to see yet another oud, especially when it has nothing to do with the brand ethos (does Bond No 9 New York Oud make sense to anyone?)

Photograph of fragrant sweet peas © Bois de Jasmin.

What fragrances do you anticipate wearing often this fall? Old favorites, new discoveries, anticipated launches?

The weather is still hot and humid on the East Coast, but I already notice the signs of arriving autumn–an early morning fog, a dazzle of crimson and ochre among the still verdant foliage, a scent of ripe apples and bonfires. Though the sunshine may fool me into thinking that summer will never end, autumn’s breath lends the air its fragrant of chestnut shells and wet earth. A perfect time to contemplate one’s fall fragrance wardrobe…

Photo credit: Richard via flickr.com, some rights reserved.