Cheap & Chic: 70 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In an ironic twist, a niche perfume I sampled recently turned out to be similar to a mass market release, and a mass market fragrance reminded me of a niche perfume. The niche perfume in question is Keiko Mecheri Umé, which created for me a distinct first impression reminiscent of Calvin Klein Euphoria. Although Umé lacks the patchouli-amber base, the transparent exotic fruity accord resting on velvety woody notes is very much in the spirit of Euphoria. Except that Euphoria is much more appealing to me, especially given its competitive price points.

However, a surprise was awaiting me in a bottle that looked so disconcerting that it was almost impossible to ignore its poisonous pink and jet black hues. In Control Curious is the latest offering by Britney Spears and a limited edition flanker to the first Curious, a fruity-floral composition of magnolia and pear resting on vanilla musk. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If there is a theme in feminine perfumery that seems to be evolving over the past decade, it must be pink and sheer. Fitting with the light and transparent style of Fresh Index fragrances, Pink Jasmine cannot be described in any other way but pink, delicate and pretty. Whether these are positive or negative attributes would depend on personal preference; although, those who like sweet florals rendered transparent like chiffon and durable like nylon will find Pink Jasmine a good choice for the spring.

From its glittering top of oranges covered with flower petals to the transparent woody base, Pink Jasmine retains its airy floral sweetness. The splash of orange juice in the top notes immediately gives an appealing citrusy freshness which delicately persists in the floral heart. The fruity notes become more apparent as the fragrance dries down, with the sweetness growing more substantial, although never becoming cloying. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Melodrama was created by the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake (the nose behind Serge Lutens fragrances) for Space.NK, a perfumery in Covent Garden, London. It is a fragrance that pays homage to the 1920s, although its composition is closer to the aldehydic floral chypre like Millot Crêpe de Chine (1925), Weil Zibeline (1928) and Hermès Calèche (1961), than to the aldehydic floral like Chanel No.5 (1921). It marries the sparkling floral aldehydic canvas with the classical chypre accord, the mossy woodiness of which beautifully complements the sweet floral notes.

Beginning true to its name, Melodrama explodes with a firework of aldehydes that settle into an opaque veil over the top accord. A metallic green notes cuts through the aldehydic whiteness, allowing the floral notes to appear one by one. The sweetness of jasmine rises up to enfold the velvety note of bergamot, its sparkle dimmed in the white floral heart. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The new Aquolina fragrance Chocolovers is already released for sale. Notes are bergamot, orange, lemon, lily of the valley, coriander, hazelnut, vanilla, malt, musks. The composition explores the gourmand theme of chocolate, just in time for Valentine’s Day. The initial impression of the fragrance is Bacio, an Italian chocolate and hazelnut candy, which is contains a love note under its wrapper—a romantic variant on the Chinese fortune cookie theme. The sweet and nutty creaminess is foiled with the tinge of bittersweet darkness which slowly melts into the rounded oriental base of woods and musk. The chocolate richness underscores the base, attaining a sweet caramelized edge. Chocolovers would appeal to those who love sweet gourmand fragrances; it is a sophisticated and nicely done composition.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Pour Homme (2003) is a fragrance that defies all gender distinctions, being simply irresistible. Exploring the fragrances specifically designated for the opposite gender can be a fascinating experience. While the classical fougères like Davidoff Cool Water and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir might be too quintessentially masculine for most women, many fragrances designated as Pour Homme can be confidently explored by women, particularly by those who would like a break from the voluptuous florals and the sweet fruity compositions. Thus, by way of example, Chanel Égoïste Pour Homme is a mélange of sweet woods layered with sweet mandarine cream. Le 3ème Homme de Caron is a dark smoky flower with an exciting, but subtle fougère facet. …

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