Spring: 105 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Commencing the tradition of distilling a particular essence and creating a composition around it, L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to launch Fleur d’Oranger in October of 2005, a fragrance created by Anne Flipo—the nose behind such fragrances as La Chasse aux Papillons, Verte Violette, and Un Zeste d’Été—from the flowers, twigs and leaves of the Tunisian orange tree.

When the orange blossoms unfold their white petals, the scent that fills the air cannot be described in any way, but as an essence of sunshine. Its soft sweetness underscored by luscious opulence is sustained by a lovely green note that almost fades into citrusy verdancy, without ever managing to part ways with the floral heart. Fleur d’Oranger exhibits the radiant exuberance of the orange blossom brilliantly, with just a touch of emerald lushness of leaves heated by the sun. As the first scintillating floral notes subside, a delicate resinous note resurfaces, adding a pleasing tenacity and depth. The delicious white petals become suspended in the mélange of woods and leaves, yet their clarity and sweetness remains unobscured.

For a gauzy confection, this is a remarkably tenacious fragrance, lasting on my skin for several hours. Although it is a fairly linear composition, I find Fleur d’Oranger to be a successful orange blossom rendition, without either soapy or musty quality that is often associated with the orange blossom soliflores.

The fragrance is a limited edition, released in a 100ml (3.4oz) bottle. Packaged in the beautifully embossed wooded crate, the bottle will be of the traditional L’Artisan shape, but with the delicate floral design and the fragrance name engraved in the glass.  .

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Attempts to capture rain often result in something limpid and pale. Or worse yet, artificial and sharp. Water smells of nothing, yet rain is not mere water. It blends the scents of soil, leaves, flowers, with individual aromas blurring into an abstract perfume. Created by Olivia Giacobetti in 2000, Frederic Malle En Passant is one of the most successful “rain” scents after Guerlain’s enchanting Après l’Ondée (1906). Giacobetti captures the Impressionist vision of the scent of raindrops trembling on the lilac bushes. All notes reveal themselves at once conjuring a vision of passing a lilac bush in full bloom, dropping a confetti of tiny blossoms into the puddles on the pavement.

When selecting an image to accompany my discussion of this particular fragrance, it is not accidental that I chose a dark and somewhat ambivalent painting by Vrubel, depicting a dark figure against a large lilac bush, with the dusky shadows slowly creeping from the corners. Contrary to the expectations, En Passant is not a sunny heady lilac, but rather a scent of air still bearing traces of the rainstorm that ravaged the lilacs, tearing off their blossoms and leaving the ground covered with a haze of flowers. Although the rainstorm is over, En Passant hints at its distant rumblings.

Notes: white lilac, rain accord, cucumber, wheat, orange tree leaves.

Painting: Lilac by Mikhail Vrubel (1856-1910), one of the greatest Russian painters, founder of Russian Art Nouveau.

L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons is a mist of bright floral notes, underpinned by the coconut sweetness of tuberose.  Created by perfumer Anne Flipo in 1999, it is still the company’s top seller. The citrus notes set the stage for the floral adagio dominated by orange blossom. It is an uplifting, cheerful fragrance, and although I have been wearing on and off for several years, it still thrills me whenever I smell it. I cannot sulk wearing La Chasse Aux Papillons, just like I cannot feel blue looking at Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s works. Both are full of light and serenity. La Chasse aux Papillons is far from a fragrance masterpiece and it does not last long enough on skin to score full five points, but it is such an effervescent, happy scent that I forgive it its poor tenacity.

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita is as refreshin as a sip of lemonade on a hot summer day. It makes me feel rejuvenated and refreshed. The top notes are a Venetian lace of citrus notes, lychee, green leaves and white petals. Then the lemony melody softens into a floral medley. Here, water lily note is what I notice the most, paired with the spring-like brightness of freesia and the lush richness of jasmine sambac. The dry down is pleasantly earthy and musky.

Sampaguita, another name for a variety of jasmine sambac, comes from the Tagalog words “sumpa kita,” which means “I promise you.” It is the national flower of Phillipines, where the sampaguita is also known by a host of other names: sambac, sampagung, campopot, lumabi, kulatai, pongso, malur and manul.

Notes: Lychee, grass oil, bergamot and magnolia; sampaquita absolute, freesia, muguet, rose and water lilies; musk, vetivert, moss and ambrette seed.

Photo by willmack via flickr.

Guerlain Après l’Ondée was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1906.  I loved this scent right away for its wonderfully delicate combination of orange blossom and violet, tinged with a spicy anise note.

The first accord is reminiscent of a spring garden after a tempestuous May shower as the damp earth, drenched leaves and flowers begin to warm up under the sun. The aura of this fragrance is effervescent, innocent and joyous. But there is a dark timbre to Après l’Ondée as well. It is similar to the moment after the rain is over; the sun is shining, yet the clouds still cast somber shadows upon the landscape. The heart blossoms with iris and violet, which much to my delight, is a departure from the traditionally sweet candy-like violet notes. The carnation is subdued and merely adds a spicy ornament. The dry down is smooth and tender, with the sugared almond, vanilla and musk lending it an abstract gourmand sensation. Après l’Ondée is a garden in the first flush of bloom, yet to reveal all of its secrets.

Continue reading →