Summer: 172 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Saffron, black pepper and chili pepper are the spices that inspired three fragrances by L’Artisan Parfumeur for its Les Epices de la Passion set, which debuted in 2002. Created by Olivia Giacobetti and Bertrand Duchaufour, the fragrances posses a subtle touch, playing up the facets of spices against creamy notes. The compositions are not what I would call passionate and voluptuous, as they are rendered rather sheer and charming. The spices whisper and shimmer, rather than bite. Their rough edges are smoothed by the sweet and floral notes, with the peppery burn of Poivre Piquant loosing itself in creamy sandalwood, and a medicinal element of saffron in Safran Troublant in rose.

Safran Troublant created by Olivia Giacobetti has an abstract edible quality of a vivid saffron note folded into a rose soufflé. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer’s interpretation of incense is like a gentle swirl of smoke rising from hot ashes. Created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1999, it is an incense fragrance marked by soft haziness that is strikingly noticeable in most of her creations. Unlike dark and mysterious Armani Privé Bois d’Encens—a fragrance truly in place before somber blackened images of Orthodox saints, Passage d’Enfer takes austere darkness out of frankincense and infuses it with fresh floral softness.

The composition has a panoramic quality, with the notes being layered one on top of another, instead of progressing sequentially. However, after a couple of hours, one notices a reverse movement as the fragrance begins to gain more transparency and to fade slowly. Myrrh with its note of medicinal anise is classically paired with sharp resinous frankincense. Transparent darkness of the accord is ornamented with the green balsamic notes, which amplify its soaring quality.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve (1996), true to its name, is a dream of a fragrance. A dream of lush flowers dropping petals onto hot sand and of sweet haze of carefree summer. A burst of opulent monoi warms up the skin like a ray of sunshine. There is nothing bashful about its sumptuous scent redolent of coconut and white peaches. Yet, it is a perfect setting for the intertwining melody of luscious sweet rose and banana tinged jasmine. Creamy and satiny, it is a fragrance that stays close to the skin, yet entices if one is lucky to get close enough to the wearer. A whisper of iris balances out what could have been an overly sweet and lush drydown, resulting in a perfectly ornamented composition, which could not be described as anything but stunning.

I never fail to be surprised by the lack of attention Parfums de Nicolaï receive in the States, not only because the fragrances are masterfully composed, but also because the range of both personal and room fragrances is diverse and exciting. Perhaps, it is because the products are much more reasonably priced in Europe, while in the States, they incur a heavy markup. Parfums de Nicolaï were founded by Patricia de Nicolaï, a descendant of Pierre Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain’s brother, and her husband Jean-Louis Michau in 1989. The house has several boutiques, the locations of which can be discovered directly from Parfums de Nicolaï. Fragrances and ancillary products are available online at Beautyhabit, First-in-Frangrance, New London Pharmacy, Senteurs d’Ailleurs.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s take on citrus results in a brilliant clarity supported by a minimalistic and subtly sensual foundation. When The Different Company Divine Bergamote first debuted in 2003, my expectations were of a straightforward citrus fragrance supported by a cedarwood base—a common pairing in perfumery. However, from the first explosion of silky sweet and astringent bergamot to the base notes of soft delicate musk, the fragrance never developed like I imagined.

Ellena used 70% of natural bergamot in the composition and fused it with ginger, which highlights the spicy and chilly quality of the top notes. Like Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade, another Ellena creation, Divine Bergamote is ornamented beautifully with both floral and verdant touches, none of which are distinct enough to be readily recognized. Yet, they weave seamlessly through the composition, modifying and softening the astringency of citrus. One moment, I smell a cup of chilled ginger tea; the next, a crushed flower bud. Through this impressionistic mélange, I notice a delicate scent of skin after a day in the sun. There is a mere hint of warmth, yet it is enough to lend a whisper of sensuality to the drydown and a doze of interest to what could have been just a sparkling citrusy fragrance.

Notes: bergamot (70% of natural bergamot), ginger, orange blossom, leaf green, rhubarb (wood), musk.

Among quintessential summer perfumes, Eau d’Hadrien rules supreme. Created by perfumer Henri Sorsana and Annick Goutal in 1981, it is a crisp and effervescent fragrance that relies on the combination of lemon and grapefruit underscored by basil and cypress to capitalize on the burst that citrus can give to fragrances. The icy pearls of citrus notes scatter on the skin and provide a sensation of cold breeze. While the sparkling quality of citrus is wont to be shortlived, as it begins to vanish, dry piney notes of cypress embrace citrus, preventing its chilly glitter from melting away. Moreover, a touch of ylang ylang lends a subtle sweetness that combines perfectly with tart citrus notes. For me, Eau d’Hadrien is a walk down the sun lit road, where the heat of the sun competes with the cool wind swaying the trees lining the path.

Eau d’Hadrien soap is wonderful, and if one enjoys fresh citrusy scents, it will surely delight. The soaps are 4.2 oz each, beautifully packaged and decorated. Their strong scents linger pleasantly, making any of the soaps a great addition to the morning shower.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky. Old Town II. 1902. Oil on canvas. 52 x 78.5 cm. Musée National d’Art Moderne, Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France.