Chypre: 72 posts

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfum Grès Cabochard, meaning “headstrong,” is an example of how a chypre fragrance can embody confidence and independence, playing upon the austere and dry qualities of the genre. At the same time, its aloof air is seductive, as some mysteries can be. It does not bestow its favours lightly, hiding its delicate floral heart under the dark layers of smoky leather and green notes. One feels compelled to unlock its secrets, revisiting again and again, and falling deeper and deeper into the rabbit hole.

Not only was Cabochard very successful at the time of its release in 1959, its leather chypre composition inspired many subsequent fragrances. Therefore, its inclusion among the legends of French perfumery by Michael Edwards is only to be expected.  …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The orange opening Frédéric Malle Noir Epices is dark and dimly lit, as opposed to sparkling like a handful of glitter. Touched by the soft apricot notes, rose begins to unfold gently, wrapped in a foil of velvety green and herbal notes. The moment the orange sweetness is dimmed, the transition is akin to throwing open a door into an idealized vision of a souk, where spices are displayed in colorful mounds.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Rose is one of my favorite notes, however it is difficult to encounter a rose focused fragrance that can still pique my interest.  A combination of rose and patchouli is a successful marriage, which first was explored in depth by L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses.  Une Folie de Rose was released by Les Parfums de Rosine in 2005. Unlike a much more avant-garde Voleur de Roses, Une Folie de Rose is a classically composed rose chypre, featuring notes of coriander, bergamot, tea rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli.

The impression upon inhaling the top notes is similar to smelling a tea rose on a hot summer afternoon. The hot and dizzying radiance of the sun and the transparent sweetness of silky petals combine to create a multifaceted sensory wave. Radiant rose is clouded by lemony spiciness of coriander, with sparks of bergamot contributing to the effect.

Intense floral heart, weaving in sweetness of rose and opulent sharpness of ylang-ylang sends forth a shower of red and white petals.  Once the petals settle, an earthy darkness of patchouli rises up, layering the flowers with the currents of golden shimmer and earthy richness. A gentle sweetness of amber is like a scattering of cinders glowing softly in the dark.  A base resting on a cold powdery sweetness of oakmoss sets a stage for an interplay of sensations that makes chypre genre so fascinating.  The outcome is an elegant and interesting rose fragrance, steering clear both of the sentimentality associated with rose and of the aloof austerity attributed to chypre.  While Voleur de Roses is a more innovative take on rose, Une Folie de Rose might be a more wearable option for those who found patchouli in L’Artisan to be too dark and earthy.

Available at Aedes, First-in-Fragrance, and Barneys New York.

Picture: Advertisement by René Gruau from www.renegruau.com.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Eau de Toilette

There are some fragrances that one cannot forget, even if for one reason or another, the love affair is suspended, and the bottle is not replaced. When I moved to the US, my perfume bottles were left at the old apartment and, alas, never retrieved. Cristalle was one of them. And then recently I stopped by a Chanel counter and reached for the slim oblong bottle. As the mist fell upon my skin, I was immediately swayed by its luminous clarity. Of course, I had to have a bottle right away.

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Guerlain marketed Chant d’Arômes in 1962 as a fragrance for a woman who wears perfume only for herself. In an interview with Elle Magazine, perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain described his muse Marie-Monique as “a proper, ladylike young woman. I chose spring flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia, embellished them with mandarin and bergamot and added a touch of jasmine and a hint of ylang-ylang.”

Chant d’Arômes is a delicately rendered floral chypre, with a strong accent of peach and sweet orange. The inky richness of oakmoss and the milky sweetness of sandalwood serve as interesting contrasts to the pastel hued heart of honeysuckle and jasmine. It is at once innocent and alluring.

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