Gardenia: 19 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

You would be hard-pressed to find a more devoted Guerlain lover than me. I also happen to adore white florals in all shapes and forms—jasmine, tuberose, seringa, gardenia, frangipani, magnolia. However, my first impression when I smelled Cruel Gardénia from Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matière collection was utter disappointment. Where is gardenia, I wondered? Sure, it flits through the top note, but the floral impression that lingers is that of orange blossom and ylang ylang wrapped in a cloud of hedione (airy and diffusive jasmine material). Nevertheless, it is very elegantly constructed, and I do not want to dismiss it altogether, even if I miss the intoxicating gardenia. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In many ways, perfumery has to build upon its past—within every new and groundbreaking idea there is a kernel of tradition. Over the past few years, we have seen Guerlain, Chanel, Robert Piguet, and Lancôme opening their archives. Although Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is not a re-issue of the classical Estée Lauder Private Collection introduced in 1973, its clear connection with the great Lauder legacy makes it an exciting launch. Whatever expectations I had of this fragrance, they were more than exceeded when I finally had a chance to try it….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

For anyone with interest in history, the exploration of vintage fragrances is a journey that offers one exciting discovery after another. Each bottle of perfume holds the essence of its time, artistic inspirations, and scientific advances. Coty L’Origan (1905) conjures Edwardian silhouettes and rich fabrics. Caron Nuit de Noël (1922) captures the Art Deco glamour. Robert Piguet Bandit (1944) is an avant-garde take on leather, a new style of fragrance that resonated with the post-war sentiments. Opening each vintage bottle for the first time is like unveiling a mystery, an experience that never fails to make my heart race. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve (1996), true to its name, is a dream of a fragrance. A dream of lush flowers dropping petals onto hot sand and of sweet haze of carefree summer. A burst of opulent monoi warms up the skin like a ray of sunshine. There is nothing bashful about its sumptuous scent redolent of coconut and white peaches. Yet, it is a perfect setting for the intertwining melody of luscious sweet rose and banana tinged jasmine. Creamy and satiny, it is a fragrance that stays close to the skin, yet entices if one is lucky to get close enough to the wearer. A whisper of iris balances out what could have been an overly sweet and lush drydown, resulting in a perfectly ornamented composition, which could not be described as anything but stunning.

I never fail to be surprised by the lack of attention Parfums de Nicolaï receive in the States, not only because the fragrances are masterfully composed, but also because the range of both personal and room fragrances is diverse and exciting. Perhaps, it is because the products are much more reasonably priced in Europe, while in the States, they incur a heavy markup. Parfums de Nicolaï were founded by Patricia de Nicolaï, a descendant of Pierre Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain’s brother, and her husband Jean-Louis Michau in 1989. The house has several boutiques, the locations of which can be discovered directly from Parfums de Nicolaï. Fragrances and ancillary products are available online at Beautyhabit, First-in-Frangrance, New London Pharmacy, Senteurs d’Ailleurs.