Gourmand: 50 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I generally try to steer clear of too much hyperbole, but in the case of Angel, every hyperbole describes it perfectly. The most polarizing, the most memorable, the most dramatic, the most grotesque… Angel, created for Thierry Mugler in 1992, is one of the great perfume success stories of the last two decades. Its introduction on the market is also an interesting case study into what it takes to make a classic: quality juice, a strong character, a memorable signature and also time. Today, most brands go for the quick sell, releasing fragrances that are bland and derivative; the new launches are rarely given time to take hold in the market place. Angel was not a runaway success; it took three years of constant support from Thierry Mugler and its parent company, Clarins, for this fragrance to start topping the best seller lists. And the rest is history!

What follows is not so much my standard perfume review, but rather an exploration of how this fragrancew came about and what makes it unusual. In the end, I share some of my favorites among Angel offspring, including some fragrance that I find fantastic but that fared quite badly on the market. I also would love to hear your thoughts on Angel, positive and negative.

Angel: New Gourmand Fragrance Genre

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau, which translates from French as “play on skin” or games “involving skin,” certainly engages in plenty of olfactory tricks. Christopher Sheldrake and Serge Lutens have never been shy about exploring difficult notes. I still marvel at the technical genius of La Myrrhe, in which a traditionally heavy, unctious and dense note of myrrhe seems effervescent and luminous. Or the harsh, diesel fuel note of methyl benzoate in Tubéreuse Criminelle that makes the white tuberose appear even fresher and brighter. In Jeux de Peau, the notes that are pushed to the point of discomfort are the caramelized, charred accords that evoke toasted bread.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

La petite robe noire, little black dress, is a perfect concept for a fragrance. Scent is as much of an embellishment as beautiful clothing, and an appropriately selected perfume can lend much to the allure of its wearer. Moreover, the idea of a little black dress — the perfect, versatile garment — is very appealing. As such, Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire ended up on my must-sample list. Alas, the problem with La Petite Robe Noire is that it does not convey to me the timelessly chic quality that its sartorial referent should have; it is more of a dernier cri attire suggested by the composition of bubbly red fruit on a cotton candy and patchouli base.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Out of all the gourmand fragrances following in Thierry Mugler Angel ‘s steps, Lolita Lempicka is still the most innovative example. Even when viewed against the whole body of gourmand perfumes launched since 1993, its originality and memorable contrasted character make it stand out. If Angel and Coco Mademoiselle have the dramatic and bold presence of a blonde in a tight red dress, Lolita Lempicka is a mysterious stranger in a black gown. The cleavage is perhaps quite low, but the effect nevertheless remains elegant.

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Recently, as I was making a dry perfume blend to flavor my holiday gingerbread, I found myself wishing that I could capture its bright cardamom, coriander and cinnamon fragrance in a perfume. Naturally, I wondered whether someone else might have done so already, as the gourmand fragrance genre has grown considerably since the launch of Thierry Mugler Angel in 1993. Its suggestions of caramel, bitter chocolate, cotton candy and candied fruit has introduced a whole new concept of fragrances that unapologetically appropriated the most opulent patisserie ideas for perfume. In fact, there exist quite a few fragrances that range from abstract allusions to gingerbread to quite realistic flavor renditions. I find this genre, a subset of the oriental fragrance family, rather playful and quite enjoyable to explore, as the spicy gourmands being warm and enveloping suit my winter mood perfectly.

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