Gourmand: 50 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In my 10 Perfumes I Should Love … But Do Not, Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum occupies the top spot. It contains everything I should enjoy, but the end result smells like a cross between a cheap almond candle and a cleaning product. It is also one of the most popular Lutens fragrance. One of the reasons I finally decided to write this review is to hear the views of those who love this fragrance and gladly wear it. Since all of us perceive fragrances slightly differently, perhaps I am missing something. As things stand however, Rahat Loukoum, inspired by the Turkish confection, is not much of a delight for me.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Usually I steer clear of any fragrance named “Candy,” given my unfortunate experiences with Aquolina Pink Sugar and other high-calorie gourmands. However, Prada Candy had a few things going for it: I generally very much enjoy Prada’s aesthetic, and I love the refined work of Daniela Roche-Andrier, the perfumer responsible for many fragrances in the line. She tends to render her accords as luminous and sparkling, and this radiant quality permeates Prada Candy. Although it explores rich materials like caramel, vanilla and sweet resins, Candy lives up to its name by conveying a dainty, luscious confection.

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Praline, a confection of sugar and nuts, is something I enjoy preparing as much for the smell as for the taste. When the caramel begins to darken and send forth its voluptuous, heady aroma, I always wish I could capture precisely this perfume in a bottle. Most caramel gourmand ideas in fragrances, however, are far too sweet for my tastes, without the nutty bitterness that is essential to the aroma of praline.

When I first heard about Parfumerie Generale’s new limited edition fragrance Praliné de Santal, I was hesitant, imagining a cloying, dense mélange. I should not have worried. Praliné de Santal hits all of the indulgent nuances of a true gourmand, while steering clear of the sugary, cotton candy effect. Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka have long been the darlings of Hollywood celebrities and publications such as Vogue, which named them among the “Top 10 American Designers.” The classical silhouettes of their glamorous gowns, their predilection for luxurious, yet understated embellishments and their ability to distinguish between good taste and wanton excess is what garnered loyal support for the duo’s collections. It is therefore not surprising to discover that Badgley Mischka has pursued a union of fashion with fragrance via their eponymous release created by the Firmenich perfumer Richard Herpin.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Judith Leiber’s idea of night is rather close to my olfactory nightmare. For a moment, I thought that I had made a mistake and sampled one of the new Mariah Carey Lollipops; the synthetic fruit, sharp patchouli, and strident floral notes seemed incongruous with Judith Leiber. The glittering image of Swarowski encrusted purses led me to expect something likewise sparkling and whimsical, but I feel that with Judith Leiber Night I have received a vulgar rhinestone imitation.

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