Pepper: 18 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The first impression of Ormonde Jayne Isfahan is a transparent sizzle of pepper, which has an interesting violet-like sweetness supported by warm citrus notes. The blast subsides quickly, with the bits of pepper dissolving into what is to become the main edifice of the composition—smooth, languidly sweet cedar, with a distinct dark coolness of vetiver. The changes that take place subsequently are few, with the composition having more of linear quality than other Ormonde Jayne fragrances.

Even if Isfahan (2006) pales in comparison to other Ormonde Jayne’s creations, it nevertheless possesses a certain charm that would make this fragrance more appealing on a man than a large number of bland masculine fragrances on the market. On the other hand, it has a sweet softness that would make it appealing for a woman as well. I would have endorsed it stronger had it possessed better tenacity, beyond a mere hour that it lasts on me.

Photo: Si-o-Seh Pol, Bridge of 33 Arches, Isfahan, Iran. One of the most famous Isfahan bridges, it was commissioned in 1602 by Shah Abbas I. There is a famous tea house among the pontoons, upon which the bridge is built.

Original:

Reformulation:

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“Crack of the Whip” is a name befitting this outstanding Caron creation. After the sharp burst of pepper, the chill of floral notes ornamented by spicy iridescence begins to unravel. Carnation blossoms out of the spicy tulle and grows more and more voluptuous and sweet, before suddenly bursting into a layers and layers of sweet and translucent petals. As quickly as carnation appears, the next wave brings an additional layer of spicy warmth. It fuses the elements of the composition together, adding sweetness where it was lacking and smoothing the spicy edges before they start to burn. After the carnation petals are swept away by the warm breath, the sweet smoky notes of incense start to swirl in delicate patterns. Opoponax (sweet myrrh) is what lends a subtly sweet, balsamic quality to the dry down, forcing flowers to lose their demure quality and peppers to freeze into an intricate spicy balance.

Those who are afraid of Caron’s darkness and now-unfashionable mossiness should explore Coup de Fouet, which is a wonderful example of why classical compositions can withstand the ever changeable fashion. It is refined without being aloof and timeless without being dated. A true Caron gem! However, please give the top notes a chance to perform their transformations before making a verdict.

Poivre is the extrait de parfum version of Coup De Fouet, and as expected, it is richer and more cerebral. It takes longer to make its acquaintance, with the sweet incense notes I liked being darker and more vibrant contrast with the rest of the composition. Both were created by Michel Morsetti in 1954.

Notes: red pepper, black pepper, giroflore, carnation, ylang ylang, opoponax, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss.

On Reformulation (March 2011):

Wearing the original Poivre is an exhilarating experience that can only be compared to biting into a black peppercorn crust atop steak au poivre. The spicy rose underscoring the fiery pepper and woods lent the composition a certain dark vision of glamor. The current version is more pink than crimson, and as such, its beauty has been lost. The cinnamon, clove and pepper notes are quite attenuated, with the final result verging on bland. Coup de Fouet is the Eau de Toilette version of Poivre and it is even thinner.

Caron Parfum Sacré can be compared to a fine cashmere shawl as it clings to the skin and feels warm and smooth. Created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Béthouart in 1990, it is a spicy oriental, with a big rose in its heart. The first impression is a tingly rush of black pepper. Then, mace (the inner casing of nutmeg), cardamom and lemon grow stronger and richer.

For all its spicy notes, Parfum Sacré is not a dry, pungent fragrance, but caressing and enveloping. The rose softens the middle notes lending them a honeyed sweetness. Rose’s appearance can be compared to a gorgeous stranger entering the room–the clamor stops and every minute whisper is heard distinctly. That’s when I notice orange blossom and iris delicately hinting at their presence. Soon the woody accords undulate slowly lending a resinous aspect to the dry down. The smooth balsamic myrrh, sweet amber and smoky vanilla form the intricate drydown. To call Parfum Sacré sultry is probably an understatement! Still, it is not what I would call a bombshell perfume. Parfum Sacré lends itself to being worn as a comfort scent. On a cold winter day, it is a perfect scented choice–warming and rich, like a glass of mulled wine.

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