Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A lily that flirts with vanilla, Cartier Baiser Volé took me by surprise. After experiencing the pretty, but overly timid Cartier de Lune, I expected that Baiser Volé would fit its name, which means “stolen kiss” in French, by possessing a delicate and fleeting character. I was right about delicate, but fleeting and limpid it is not. For all of its soft and caressing presence, it has a distinctive and vivid character. While its start is sparkling and bright, Baiser Volé becomes warmer and richer as it develops, turning from a gauzy veil to a comforting cashmere wrap.

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In spring of 2012, Serge Lutens will release a new fragrance in his “Water” series. L’Eau Froide (Cold Water) will follow L’Eau de Serge Lutens launched in 2010. The main ingredient of L’Eau Froide is frankincense, and although incense conjures smoldering, burning images, the raw material possesses a chilly, crisp scent reminiscent of crushed peppercorns and bitter lemon peel. It also includes a cocktail of musk and citrus notes.

Lutens noted about the original L’Eau, ‘When I presented L’Eau to my team, I felt like Saint Just informing the nobles they were going to lose their privileges.” Let’s hope that L’Eau Froide will restore of the spirits!

L’Eau Froide will be available as Eau de Parfum in 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz bottles, 69 and 100 euros respectively.

Those who are contemplating their holiday shopping might like to know that Guerlain counter at Bergdorf Goodman is offering free shipping on any of their products from December 1 to December 6th as well as a free gift with $100 purchase.

What strange, bad scents do you like? 

In perfumery, the worst smells can have the best effects–the inky, moth ball fragrance of indole lends a natural, velvety note to floral compositions; aldehyde C-11 with its dirty hair facet makes rose accords rich and lush; animalic notes lend a surprising sensuality to woods and resins. Thinking about it made me wonder about preferences for scents that are considered by most to be bad or unpleasant: skunk, hot asphalt, gasoline, mildew, etc.

My own good-bad favorites include the musty smell of decaying leaves in the fall, the rotten onions and cheese of durian (a notorious tropical fruit,) and the pungent sweetness of pen ink. I also love the smell of jet fuel on the airport runway; although these days with the boarding taking place via covered passageways, one rarely gets to be on the field itself.

Photograph of fallen leaves via wikipedia commons.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“I’ve loved Chinese screens since I was eighteen years old. I nearly fainted with joy when, entering a Chinese shop, I saw a Coromandel for the first time. Screens were the first thing I bought,” said Coco Chanel in one of her interviews, as quoted by Claude Delay in Chanel Solitaire, 1983, p.12.) The dark lacquered wood of Coromandel screens with their unique luminescence was the main impression of those who visited her apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. Their unique blend of opulence and austerity, of dark sheen and bright gold embellishments was the inspiration for the fragrance of the same name from Les Exclusifs collection: Chanel Coromandel.

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