Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Sicily provides an interesting example of using a heavy dose of aldehydes (effervescent aroma-materials made famous by Chanel No 5)  in a modern composition. Created by Nathalie Lorson for Dolce & Gabbana in 2003, Sicily rests its floral-aldehydic heart upon the vanillic oriental base. The result is an unexpectedly seductive juxtaposition of soapy notes and powdered honeysuckle, which gently allude to the sun tan oil before segueing into the creamy sweetness of sandalwood. …

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Cerruti 1881 collection will be extended with a new men’s fragrance called Cerrutti 1881 Black, “a fresh, woody oriental developed by Michel Girard of Quest. Key notes include black pepper, bitter orange, marzipan and precious woods,” reports cosmeticnews. Given the previous excellent additions such as the winey iris of Cerruti 1881 Collection and the crystalline musk of Cerrutti 1881 Blanc, I am very much anticipating this release. It is going to be available starting mid-October of 2006.

Bois d’Armenie, the newest Guerlain fragrance created for the L’Art et la Matiere collection, which includes Angélique Noire, Rose Barbare and Cuir Beluga, is already available at the Guerlain flagship store in Paris.  Inspired by the scented paper used as incense since the 16th century, the fragrance includes notes of “pink pepper, iris, rose, coriander, benzoin, Indonesian patchouli, incense, precious woods, musk and balsams.”  For the time being, Bois d’Armenie is exclusive to 68, Champs Elysées store, however they can be ordered by calling 33 145 62 52 57 or writing to Francoise at [email protected] (via boutique).

Photo: Armenian burning paper.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

How can roots be made soaring, their dark earthiness turned into the effervescence of champagne and their woodiness into the lightness of rice paper? If the roots are vetiver and the perfumer is Maurice Roucel, the result is KenzoAir (2003)—a transparent and crisp arrangement of vetiver resting on a sheer ambery base. …

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The new book by the fragrance and flavor chemist and director of the natural-scents research unit for Givaudan, Roman Kaiser, promises to be fascinating. “Meaningful Scents around the World” is offering “a fragrant journey to some of the exciting places the author has visited in 30 years of olfactory research… In doing so, he leads us to such exotic places as Lower Amazonia, Papua New Guinea, India, and many rain-forest biotopes in his quest for new molecules and new scent concepts, showing us along the way how a scent like tatami can be linked to culture,” notes the editor’s review on Helvetica Chimica Acta. Please refer to the website to read more as well as to explore the index. “Meaningful Scents around the World” is slated for July 2006. Roman Kaiser, a scientist famous for his ‘headspace’ analytical technique, is also an author of “The Scent of Orchids“ as well as the numerous scientific publications.