L’Artisan Parfumeur is a quintessential niche line, with the fragrances possessing quirky compositions, whimsical names and a flair for elegant simplicity. Under the direction of Jean-François Laporte, it has produced the classic like Mûre et Musc (1978) and the maltol overdosed Vanilia (1978). It was the first to introduce a fig accord in Premier Figuier (1994), to use coffee notes in L’Eau du Navigateur (1978), to make an animalic composition like Dzing! (1999) appear ethereal. That being said, a number of perfumes in the line are disappointingly thin, especially the florals, some of which strike me as so dainty that I feel like walking on tip toes when wearing them.

Orchidée Blanche is one of the few exceptions that make a bold floral statement. Created under the direction of Laporte in 1985, it presents a stunning white flower wrapped in a delicious layer of sweet iris and a subtle accent of spice. Its voluptuous arrangement shares more lineages with the soft floral-aldehydic fragrances of 1970s than with the rest of the L’Artisan florals. Perhaps, the now unpopular powderiness is one of the reasons for Orchidée Blanche being a relatively obscure L’Artisan perfume. Yet, the glamorous character and vintage elegance make it worth exploring, especially for those with the penchant for classics. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Why do I reach for Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27 and Neroli 36, even though I have a pile of other interesting Le Labo samples in my lap? Something about the sweet radiance of tiny white flowers, underscored by the alluring complexity of indoles makes this note simply irresistible. While my heart is captured by L’Artisan Fleur d’Oranger, I am always prepared to explore this note further.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Provocatively named, Lanvin Mon Péché (My Sin for the American market) is a mystery novel full of unusual twists and complex subplots. From the chilly elegance of its top notes crowned with the crisp aldehydes to the languorous darkness of its floral heart and the animalic base, heavy like a sigh of yearning, it never ceases to maintain attention. Why a mystery and not a simple story of seduction? Like most classical fragrances, My Sin does not flaunt its sensuality, but treats it in a tantalizing and unpredictable manner, resulting in a composition that, like a good mystery novel, keeps one guessing until the last page.

Between 1923 and 1924, the Russian perfumer Mme Zed created a range of perfumes for Jeanne Lanvin’s fashion house, which were intended more as the scented souvenirs for travel obsessed Lanvin than the fragrances with the wide appeal. Thus, La Dogaresse captured the beauty of ochre colored Venetian palazzos reflecting in the murky waters of the canals. Geranium d’Espagne spoke of hot stone paved streets in Seville. Le Sillon reminded of the wake of a ship. A collaboration between Mme Zed and Firmenich in 1924 resulted in My Sin. It broke with the holiday postcard tradition of Lanvin perfumes, instead presenting a composition that told its irresistible story in a sexy whisper. Its success was to be rivaled only by Arpège. …

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Based near Grasse in the south of France, Art of Perfumery, according to their press release, is a company that wanted perfumers to have freedom in creating the fragrances of their dreams. “I gave the perfumers complete freedom in terms of cost and odour direction and the only requirement I placed upon them was to create with complete honesty,” says Peter Milsted, founder of Art of Perfumery. There are 7 fragrances in the range, 4 for women and 3 for men.

No. 1 for women: Citrus Aquatic Floral
Freshness derived from flowers, fruits and citrus notes blended on a heart of unequalled aquatic delicacy offer an exceptional presence.

No. 2 for men: Citrus Herbal Cologne
A stunning creation. An incredible get up and go fragrance that sparks with energy.

No. 3 for women: Lily of the Valley, White Floral
Beautifully balanced natural white floral ingredients combine to create a modern day masterpiece of purity and elegance.

No. 4 for men: Fresh Marine Woody
Perfumery contrasts of water and fire take male fragrances to a new level.

No. 5 for women: Floral Oriental
The true spirit of the oriental, rich and expansive with fresh modern accords threaded throughout. A superb update of a classic theme.

No. 6 for men: Spice Smoked Wood
An unforgettable character. .

No. 7 for women: Fresh Rose Amber
Innovation and sophistication combine in a fragrance of breathtaking originality. A rose drowned in amber and so much more…

Samples (3 euros) and 50ml bottles (75 euros) as well as further information are available from Art of Perfumery.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The mandarin peel unravels in a loose curl, revealing translucent fleshy segments. The newest fragrance from L’Artisan, Mandarine tout simplement (2006) is an uncomplicated vignette based around the sweet citrus. If I close my eyes and inhale the scent emanating from my wrist, the image of glossy orange spheres is so vivid that my mouth begins to water. The sweet and tart facets are wonderfully balanced, with the composition eschewing the acidic bite that characterizes many citrus fragrances.

Nevertheless, this poem is far too succinct, because after bursting into a mouthwatering firework of citrus, Mandarine tout simplement slowly begins to soften into a somewhat watery floral. It is still quite pretty, especially since the pairing of sweet citrus and floral accents reminds me of a similar accord in En Passant. And then it simply vanishes, as one might expect from a light summery citrus—a teasing glimpse of thirst quenching fruit. …

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