A fascinating article about an Australian couple who picked up a fatty lump from a beach on the West Coast. The South Australian West Coast ambergris weighs around 14.75 kilograms. The current price for a gram of ambergris is approximately $20, and even this seems like a low estimate. As ABC West Coast article states, “It has been a welcome relief to the West Coast family who found it, as they are one of a number of professional fishers without their livelihood owing to the closure of the garfish fishery at the western end of Venus Bay.” Also see this story reported on BBC. Thank you for the link, M!

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

French fauvist painter Henri Matisse once observed that “there is nothing more difficult for a truly creative painter than to paint a rose, because before he can do so he has first to forget all the roses that were ever painted.” The same could be said about the perfumer and the art of creating a rose fragrance. At once familiar and desirable, the rose theme has been explored in the modern perfumery quite widely, which means that creating something new and daring requires not only forgetting the classical traditions, but also being able to erase the familiarity, to surprise and to even shock.

The beauty of Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, created by perfumer Gilles Romey lies in its abstraction of a delicate blossom into a nocturnal animalic scent, as if the petals slowly transform into the warm skin. Every single quality one might expect of rose—sweetness, powderiness, brightness, is twisted into its opposite. Where the roses might evoke delicate softness, Rose de Nuit sheds dark petals, withered at the edges. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The new Aquolina fragrance Chocolovers is already released for sale. Notes are bergamot, orange, lemon, lily of the valley, coriander, hazelnut, vanilla, malt, musks. The composition explores the gourmand theme of chocolate, just in time for Valentine’s Day. The initial impression of the fragrance is Bacio, an Italian chocolate and hazelnut candy, which is contains a love note under its wrapper—a romantic variant on the Chinese fortune cookie theme. The sweet and nutty creaminess is foiled with the tinge of bittersweet darkness which slowly melts into the rounded oriental base of woods and musk. The chocolate richness underscores the base, attaining a sweet caramelized edge. Chocolovers would appeal to those who love sweet gourmand fragrances; it is a sophisticated and nicely done composition.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A flower of many symbols, rose originated in Persia, where it was considered to be a masculine flower and a flower representing the divine, the ultimate achievement and perfection, since a fragrant blossom crowns its long, thorny stem. Possessing additional symbolism of secrecy and mystery, rose eventually became associated with beauty and love. Hindu goddess of prosperity Lakshmi, whose beauty was considered unrivaled, is supposed to have been born from a rose composed of 108 large and 1,008 small petals. Roman goddess of love, Venus, counted rose among her emblems.

In this light, it is fitting that the newest Les Parfums de Rosine fragrance should intertwine the themes of love and rose. Rose d’Amour was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. The aldehydic touch makes Rose d’Amour as classical as a bouquet of red roses. However, in contrast to the classical interpretations, Rose d’Amour is barely touched by the sparkling aldehydic veil, which lends a lovely luminous counterpoint to the rich floral motif coursing through the arrangement. …

Continue reading →

New York’s Bergdorf Goodman already has testers of the newest Annick Goutal fragrance Songes (please see my Songes review). Songes is available as EDP spray 50 ml, EDT spray 50 ml or 100 ml, gorgeous Moon bottle EDP 100 ml, Perfumed body cream, Shower Gel. The fragrance can also be ordered by emailing Annick Goutal [email protected] The official release is now slated for March of 2006. See moon bottle and read more about this fragrance comprised of frangipani, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood and vanilla on Annick Goutal website.