Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

White ashes falling off a burning incense stick is the main association that links the color white with the name of the Comme des Garçons fragrance. White roughness of a pomegranate’s inner skin, white powder falling gently from a chalk scraped against the blackboard, and ice covered pine branches are the images conjured by the composition. Yet, the main reason the fragrance evokes whiteness is not for any of these specific associations, but for its tranquil and quiet character. Donning its luminous veil instills the same serenity one feels when staring at the snow falling softly until the entire vista is shrouded in white.

White was created in 1996 by Mark Buxton, the nose behind the original Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons 2, Comme des Garçons 2 Man, Comme des Garçons 3, and Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again (with Jean-Claude Ellena), among others. The top notes spill into a sheer powdery mélange, made weightless and sheer by spices. The effervescent warmth of pepper and the camphorous sweetness of cardamom swirl like the white smoke of burning incense against the tart powderiness of pomegranate. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Warm porridge sprinkled with shaved roasted almonds, L’Artisan Bois Farine takes up the gourmand theme from the standpoint of abstraction and minimalism, both of which characterize Jean-Claude Ellena’s work. The fragrance teases slightly with its soft comforting associations, yet in its ability to transport, Bois Farine does not quite bring one to the grandmother’s kitchen. Instead, like in a swift rotation of a kaleidoscope, the elements of the composition rearrange themselves to simultaneously evoke a scent of warm skin and fresh wood shavings. The fragrance simultaneously conjures a picnic on the beach and a sculptor’s studio.

Ellena’s inspiration for the floury veil of Bois Farine was a small red flower of Ruizia cordata from the Réunion island, which sends forth a unique starchy scent, redolent of fresh dough. Bois Farine, introduced in 2003, indeed at first evokes a whole range of starchy associations from fresh wheat flour to cooked oatmeal. Delicate sweetness pervades the soft layer, softening its camphorous dryness. …

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Fragrances of the World series by Michael Edwards will soon contain the new 2006 edition, which is about to be released in January of 2006. The new edition of his well-known guidebook will include 4,500 fragrances categorized by family, with 499 new fragrances added to the listing. The information included in the guidebook comprises fragrance families, houses and gender specification of fragrances.

As Moodiereport notes, Florals family has seen an increase among female fragrances, while Fresh scents have experienced a decline. Masculine fragrances demonstrate a rise in Woody and a decline in Aromatic Fougères. Three out of every ten new launches tend to be masculine fragrances, according to Edwards.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If one were to enumerate perfumers who wielded great influence over the course of perfume history, François Coty is among them. A person of great talent and creativity, he gave the world fragrances that would serve as inspirations for many perfumers, despite the fact that he did not have formal perfumery training. Born in Ajaccio, Corsica in 1874, Coty realized that in order to expand the perfume market, the high quality product must be presented in beautiful packaging and at a reasonable price. While marketed as luxury, he deemed that perfume had to be affordable for people of every socio-economic class. While La Rose Jacqueminot (1904) was his first fragrance, incorporating new floral bases, L’Origan (1905) and Chypre (1917) would initiate two new genres of perfumery: soft sweet floral and chypre.

L’Origan (1905) cannot be mistaken for anything but a child of its times. Its soft powdery veil embellished with carnation, violet and heliotrope calls to mind gloves and Edwardian silhouettes. A precursor of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (1912), L’Origan reveals the same bittersweet anisic top notes that sparkle like diamond dust in its powdery cloud. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among fashion houses, Donna Karan never fails to offer one successful and unusual fragrance after another. Her Cashmere Mist indeed evokes a feeling of touching warm fabric that clings softly to the skin. Be Delicious Men ornaments a baked apple with delicately roasted coffee and bittersweet citrus. Chaos (released in 1996, now discontinued) was my introduction to the beauty of a saffron note folded into the luminous richness of spices and incense that comprise its elegant oriental composition.

In some ways, Black Cashmere is not unlike Chaos, a dense tapestry of multicolored threads that results in the illusion of darkness. Underscoring the composition is a smooth mélange of sandalwood and cedar. Created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux in 2003, Black Cashmere is a fragrance about the sensuality of incense. Interspersed with jewel-like vibrancy of spices, its warmth captivates and seduces. …

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