L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer : Perfume Review

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Bellini26

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer’s interpretation of incense is like a gentle swirl of smoke rising from hot ashes. Created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1999, it is an incense fragrance marked by soft haziness that is strikingly noticeable in most of her creations. Unlike dark and mysterious Armani Privé Bois d’Encens—a fragrance truly in place before somber blackened images of Orthodox saints, Passage d’Enfer takes austere darkness out of frankincense and infuses it with fresh floral softness.

The composition has a panoramic quality, with the notes being layered one on top of another, instead of progressing sequentially. However, after a couple of hours, one notices a reverse movement as the fragrance begins to gain more transparency and to fade slowly. Myrrh with its note of medicinal anise is classically paired with sharp resinous frankincense. Transparent darkness of the accord is ornamented with the green balsamic notes, which amplify its soaring quality.

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Article in New York Times: Home Fragrances

Read article on home fragrances in New York Times that includes a mention of their favourites as well as a release of Misto Bosco room spray by Etro.

Do you have your favorite home fragrances (sprays or candles)?

Fragrance News: Miller Harris Nouvelle Line

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Miller Harris Nouvelle Edition line is available at Saks 5th Avenue in New York. The fragrances include Eau de Vert, Piment des Baies, Terre d’Iris, Geranium Bourbon, Cuir d’Oranger and Vetiver Bourbon. The line used to be available only at the Miller Harris London boutique.

Lanvin Arpege Pour Homme : Perfume Review

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Arpegehomme

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Arpège Pour Homme is the newest men’s fragrance from Lanvin, created by Olivier Pescheux. A decision to have Arpège as part of the name immediately sets up a challenge from an incomparable feminine version of Arpège, created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher in 1927 (and successfully reochestrated by Hubert Fraysse in 1993). Yet, Arpège Pour Homme is worthy of its name, pairing crisp elegance with gentle softness.

The transparent hesperidic note sets the stage for the composition, remaining present throughout the development. While initially it soars over the peppery dryness of the top notes, its vivid clarity softens over time. An indolic note of jasmine is an interesting counterpoint to the austere and cold iris. As iris unfolds fully in the heart of the composition, it attains an almost violet-like quality from the vanillic notes, which cascade rapidly into the base. The base notes are layered with delicately sweet and powdery musk, oscillating between clean and sensual.

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Fragrance News: Bond No. 9 Bleecker Street

BleeckerstIf you have not had a chance to see it, the bottle for the new Bleecker Street fragrance is quite striking. Created by Dave Apel, the fragrance is going to feature notes of violet leaf, black currant, jasmine, cedarwood, cinnamon, oakmoss, suede, patchouli, amber and vanilla. It will officially launch this fall.

Photo is from style.com.

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