Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In honor of the new Bleecker Street boutique about to open in September of 2005, Bond no. 9 is releasing a new fragrance named after the new location. Created by Dave Apel of Givaudan, it is going to feature notes of violet leaf, black currant, jasmine, cedarwood, cinnamon, oakmoss, suede, patchouli, amber and vanilla. As Laurice Rahmé, founder and owner of Bond No. 9 stated in W magazine, “When I went to visit Magnolia, the kids who served cupcakes asked me, “When are you going to make a perfume that smells like cake. So, I asked Dave Apel, the perfumer, if he thought we could make a sensual perfume that reminded us of cupcakes. We worked with vanilla note and other dessert notes, like cinnamon.” Bleecker Street is “the first gourmand fragrance that’s also woodsy and oriental, which is very untraditional.”

Bleecker Street has a subtle gourmand feel, with a delicious green blackcurrant note providing a juicy touch. The drydown is an oriental base of amber and sandalwood laced with green thyme and cinnamon. The patchouli note is rendered as rather subtle, but very appealing. Considering that I enjoy Nuits de Noho with its voluptuous patchouli note, I like the subtle patchouli of Bleecker Street. While not exactly reminding me of Magnolia cupcakes, the dry down seems to have an edible quality that makes it a fall release to be anticipated. I am tempted to buy Bleecker Street for the bottle alone, which is truly a pièce de résistance—signature Bond no. 9 bottle ornamented with a starburst pattern of gold, green and purple, recalling peacock feathers.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If it is possible to envision a dark smoky composition done in watercolours, which would preserve both the vibrancy of hues and the lucidity, Olivia Giacobetti is the perfumer would be able to execute such an arrangement. L’Artisan Tea for Two (2000) is a fragrance that bears that beautiful Giacobetti-esque fingerprint. It is ethereal without being limpid and sensual without resorting to the tired tricks, a difficult feat indeed. Tea for Two is stunning on both men and women, with its smoky spiciness crossing all barriers and divisions.

Tea for Two is amazing in terms of its ability to change dramatically. The process resembles the development of photos–at first, one sees bare outlines, and then recognizable shapes begin to form. Soaring translucent notes of bergamot and orange blossom fade into the surge of smokiness. The rich tarry sweetness of lapsang souchong is like a vapor rising from a tea cup, hot and expansive.

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This fascinating bottle was designed by René Lalique in 1925 for Guerlain Bouquet de Faunes, a fragrance that debuted in 1922. I can only wonder what the content of that flacon were like! .

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Some fragrances are admirable from a distance (Yves Saint Laurent Opium), being masterfully composed, yet only marginally wearable. However, there is a category of fragrances that are beautiful from any perspective. Chanel Bois des Iles is one such composition, in which every element is just perfect and every facet is stunning.

It is said that Ernest Beaux, a Russian émigré, was inspired by “The Queen of Spades,” when he created Bois des Iles in 1926. “The Queen of Spades” (La Dame de Pique) is an opera by Tchaikovsky, based on Aleksandr Pushkin’s story of love and obsession. Bois des Iles is a scent that awakens my nostalgic yearnings. Its beauty has the same melancholy effect as a walk through the autumnal forest—the soft light diffused through the golden canopy of branches, the bittersweet scent of decaying leaves, the awareness of the autumnal transience.

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I had a chance to explore Il Profumo line at Takashimaya in New York. The fragrances are created by Silvana Casoli. My favourite fragrance turned to be Café Vert, which opens up on a crisp green note, recalling verbena and lemongrass, before drying down to a slightly roasted chocolaty finish. Chocolat is a scent that recalls Angel, while Vanille Bourbon, which contains orange blossom, vanilla, orchid, rose and heliotrope, might appeal to vanilla fans. Some other scents include Vetiver de Java, Chocolat Amère, Musc Bleu and Ambre d’Or. The line is also available from Koerperkult-Hamburg, a German online store.