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The July/August issue of Perfumer & Flavorist (vol 31, no 7) is featuring a great article about Maurice Roucel (p. 16-18). “When a great perfumer puts the genie in the bottle, the magic—the ‘it’ factor—is almost always a direct result of the character and life experience of the perfumer. This is certainly the case for Maurice Roucel, whose skills, intelligence and humility are a pleasure, in person or out of a bottle,” writes Michelle Krell Kydd as she leads the reader into the story of Roucel’s unique magnolia signature and his passion for the art of perfumery. For some like me who is an ardent admirer of Roucel’s work, the article is a wonderful discovery, helping me to learn more about the perfumer and person whose Hermès 24, Faubourg, Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist have touched my heart and captured my imagination.

The same issue also contains an interview (p.20-21) with the natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, who discusses how she started upon the path of natural perfumery, where she derives her inspirations and the affinity between flavor and fragrance. There is also a compilation of 151 noses to watch (p. 22-31). It is overall an excellent issue. The P&F requires a yearly subscription; however, individual articles can be obtained from a searchable database at the P&F magazine Article Archives.

“I picked up the invisible scent of ylang-ylang and cinnamon as my brow dampened with sweat, and I inhaled the piquant memory of an island that existed in a rare state of grace I hoped would last forever.” I highly recommend taking a look at the fascinating article by Ty Sawyer about the island of Nosy Be, off the northwest coast of Madagascar.

Photo: Ylang ylang, a flower which thrives on Madagascar.

“Food and fragrance should always be considered together… ‘for a better, bigger experience of anything you find on your plate, on your skin, or in the air’,” observed the perfumer Christophe Laudamiel (creator of Michael Kors Island, Slatkin Persian Lime and Mimosa and Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude) during the James Beard Foundation event “Educate Your Palate” on the arts of fragrance and flavor. The event was organized by the perfume industry consultant Michelle Krell Kydd as well as Bill Yosses, the pastry chef of Citarella restaurant, and Food Arts has an interesting article by Laura Stanley about it. It is the first in the series of events that are held at New York University’s School of Continuing Education and are open to public.

Robert Piguet is reissuing Baghari, a soft floral melody originally created in 1950, just a year before the renowned fashion designer had to close the house due to his failing health. The original perfumer behind Baghari was Francis Fabron, the perfumer who created Balenciaga Le Dix, Givenchy L’Interdit, and Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps.

The new version is going to be reorchestrated by Aurélien Guichard, the creator of Bond No. 9 Chinatown and Nina Ricci Love in Paris. The composition will include notes of bergamot, aldehydes, violet, neroli, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, rose centifolia, iris, vetiver, amber, vanilla, musk. Baghari will be available in the fall of 2006. I have the original version, and I am looking forward to comparing it to the reochestrated one.

The newest Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance, Gaultier2 (or Gaultier to the Power of Two) is finally being launched in the States after its release in Europe last year. It was created by Francis Kurkdjian and it is described as a rich, sensual Oriental with amber, vanilla, woods and musk. “There’s a trend in the U.S., tastes are changing to more Oriental and sensual [scents],” said Remy Gomez, president of Beauté Prestige International, Gaultier’s distributor in the US. The fragrance will debut on August 1 at Bloomingdale’s being appearing at other retailers. Via WWD.