1 star: 17 posts

1 star means “poor”–a fragrance that doesn’t last well on skin, isn’t original or well-crafted. Or I may have disliked a perfume intensely for a combination of reasons, which I outline in each individual review.

Guerlain Nuit d’Amour : Fragrance Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Nuit d’Amour is the latest limited edition from Guerlain, which follows the 2005 launch of Plus Que Jamais. The fragrance was inspired by Gustav Klimt’s Lady with Hat and Feather Boa (Dame au Chapeau et Boa de Plumes). I am rather at a loss as to what about the flat floral oriental blend is meant to evoke a beautiful Art Noveau painting depicting a flushed redhead tightly wrapping a dark feather boa around her shoulders. Although Plus Que Jamais was a level below the classical Guerlains and their depth and complexity, it nevertheless captured the opulence and romance marking the house’s creations. Nuit d’Amour, on the other hand, veers too far into territory that has already been well explored and exploited. …

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Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge : Fragrance Review

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Created by Jean Laporte in 1988, Soie Rouge, “red silk,” is a powdery carnation with peppery bite supported by a base of moldy peaches oozing sweet juices. This would not have been that bad—or perhaps it would have been–but with the typical Maître Parfumeur et Gantier musk dominating, this is among my least favorite fragrances of the range. Notes: carnation, heliotrope, apricot, pineapple.

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