2000 launches: 11 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Caron Tubereuse is a fragrance I often think in terms of dance. Reading perfume reviews I am always struck by a variety of references to capture scent. Music language of chord, tremolo, crescendo and modulation; gustatory of bitter, sweet, sour; visual of matte, transparent, iridescent… The list is endless, and is contingent upon a reviewer’s way of identifying sensations and connecting with the world. At the same time, it also underscores the inadequacy of our language to capture scent.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Beauty borders on tangible and intangible. It is not one thing or another, itself being a combination of parts, some of which are slightly odd. The difference between pretty and beautiful is in the juxtaposition of  strange elements with expected ones. In Ormonde Jayne Woman, it is a bitter resinous note of black hemlock, folded into the cardamom and sandalwood laced composition. The combination of spicy vibrancy and sultry sweetness lends Ormonde Woman a memorable character. The warmth of amber provides a brocaded background for the interplay of woody and sweet notes.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The scent of osmanthus, a fragrant olive originating from China, is a scent of apricots crushed with jasmine soap in a leather purse. It alternates between fruity and spicy, delicate and opulent. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, on the other hand, is sharp and citrusy. The top notes create a burst of green grapefruit, immediately followed by a floral accord. The progression to the heart and then to the base is without much delay, and I would say that Osmanthus is less complex than other Ormonde Jayne’s fragrances.  Citrus notes are wont to disappear rapidly, however in this case, pomello persists even in the drydown, leaving a hint of freshness as it meets the smooth embrace of cedar. The crystalline effect of the top notes is reinforced by the soft muskiness, creating an uncomplicated crisp fruity scent with a slightly woody accord.

Notes: Pomello, davana, pimento; osmanthus absolute, water lily and jasmine sambac; cedarwood, labdanum resin, musk and vetiver.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if is an oriental still life with roses amid Persian sweetmeats and fruit—ripe peaches dripping honeyed juice, opal colored melons, saffron halwah, semolina pastries stuffed with walnuts and dates, orange blossom sherbet.  It straddles the line between gourmand and sensual.  Within its heart, Ta’if hides a delicate spring-like freshness of white flowers, jasmine and orange blossom, with some freesia sweetness.  This airy accord paired with the medicinal note of saffron is exactly what lifts Ta’if out of a sentimental domain of many rose fragrances. Make no mistake, however, this is a rich blend.  A small amount, and it seduces; too much, and you are guaranteed to be a cause of headache for those around you.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita is as refreshin as a sip of lemonade on a hot summer day. It makes me feel rejuvenated and refreshed. The top notes are a Venetian lace of citrus notes, lychee, green leaves and white petals. Then the lemony melody softens into a floral medley. Here, water lily note is what I notice the most, paired with the spring-like brightness of freesia and the lush richness of jasmine sambac. The dry down is pleasantly earthy and musky.

Sampaguita, another name for a variety of jasmine sambac, comes from the Tagalog words “sumpa kita,” which means “I promise you.” It is the national flower of Phillipines, where the sampaguita is also known by a host of other names: sambac, sampagung, campopot, lumabi, kulatai, pongso, malur and manul.

Notes: Lychee, grass oil, bergamot and magnolia; sampaquita absolute, freesia, muguet, rose and water lilies; musk, vetivert, moss and ambrette seed.

Photo by willmack via flickr.