amber scents: 40 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The promise of beguiling black orchid scent, the suggestion of classical glamour, the retro advertisement reminiscent of George Hurrell’s famous shot of Veronica Lake–and Tom Ford’s solo debut, Black Orchid became my most anticipated 2006 launch. When I finally held the gorgeous black glass bottle in my hand and sprayed the perfume on my skin, I envisioned something along the lines of Rochas Femme, the radiant sweetness wrapped into the rich animalic warmth. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Although rose is often seen as dowdy and old-fashioned, the perfumer Jacques Cavallier set the silky rose petals on the transparent ambery base and rendered the flower crisp and spicy in his fragrance for Stella McCartney. Rose Absolute followed the original, and it was still exciting, being darker, richer and warmer. Then there were a few summer limited editions, Stella Sheer, which offered a lighter take on the rose-amber marriage. Now, Stella in Two takes inspiration from the success of the original creation by offering yet another Stella variation. This time, Stella can be bought in two parts, Peony and Amber. Is it possible to stretch the concept too far? As I have discovered, yes. I was won over by the retro charm of the original, loved the richness of Rose Absolute and enjoyed the freshness of Stella Sheer. Now, I feel ready to explore something new. ….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Estée Lauder Tom Ford Azurée is now available as Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess.

The vintage glamour seems to pervade the newest Tom Ford Collection for Estée Lauder, from the turquoise blue shades of the packaging to the smoky eye and pale lip color palette. Azurée was Estée Lauder’s fragrance created as a feminine answer to the virile leather chypre of Aramis. However, instead of treating leather in an assertive manner, Azurée was modulated by woods and rich floral notes. Its lilting name arose from combination of Estée Lauder’s name and Côte d’Azur. Pronounce Azurée slowly, and you can almost envision the blue sky falling into the glittering waters of the Mediterranean Sea. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If Armani Privé Ambre Soie could be envisioned as richer, sharper, deeper, with the warmth of amber underscored by darkly resinous woods, Paco Rabanne Black XS might be the fragrance that such contemplation would paint. Ambre Soie veils its amber with a gourmand, chocolate-like layer that softens the final result, while Black XS sets amber in a frame that highlights its balsamic woods and fine tobacco facets.

Created by Olivier Cresp in 2005, Black XS is another fragrance from the recent masculine releases (like Dior Homme with iris and cocoa and Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme with jasmine and iris) that blends the gender line effortlessly. In the niche market, its gender specification might well be unisex. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Estee Lauder Youth Dew, introduced in 1953, was renowned for featuring 30% oil concentration, almost triple the usual amount. Its pairing of balsamic richness with a cloud of earthy patchouli renders the composition as dark, heavy and intriguingly languorous. At the same time, its dense and sonorous effect can be an olfactory challenge. Thus, for the winter of 2005, Estée Lauder revealed an Amber Nude collection designed by Tom Ford, with the Youth Dew interpretation joining the Lauder classic. Youth Dew Amber Nude promised to respect the character of the original composition, while unveiling its softer side.

The composition indeed is structured around the spicy floral heart and the balsamic base like the original Youth Dew; however, Amber Nude is sweeter and more luminous. Spices are gently folded into the main accord, in contrast to their liberal layering in the original. Where the sweetness of Youth Dew comes from dark rich notes of tolu balsam and benzoin, Amber Nude relies on gourmand vanilla, powdery chocolate and transparent amber. …

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