diptyque: 16 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A classical streak common to the latest Diptyque launches, Vetyverio and Eau Duelle, contrasts with the linear and streamlined character of most other fragrances offered by this house. Certainly, Vetyverio and Eau Duelle are not particularly complex, yet their structures offer some nice contrasts and interesting transitions. Eau Duelle is the most layered of the two, offering a bright spicy citrusy note set against a smoky, vanilla enriched amber backdrop.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The classical treatment of vetiver, a fragrance note with an interesting interplay of bitter grapefruit and blond woods facets, has often seen it paired with cedarwood and citrus notes. Classical citrusy woods like Aqua Brava, Guerlain Vétiver, Givenchy Vetyver follow this model. Many modern fragrances like Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire, Lalique Encre Noire and Ormonde Jayne Zizan take the classical woody theme as well, albeit using vetiver in the lower, more sonorous register. Even lighter, airier vetiver dominated blends like The Different Company Sel de Vétiver and Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac do not depart radically from the classical dry woods formula. In this light, Diptyque Vetyverio, a fragrance created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux, offers an interesting discovery—a woody composition with a juicy, fruity top and a fresh green floral heart.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“The church, which stood in gloomy isolation at the outer edge of the village, was of age-blackened wood, overgrown with green moss, and surmounted by three conical cupolas. It was at once apparent that no service had been held in it for many a long year. Candles were now burning before almost every icon.” Nikolai Gogol, a Ukrainian-born Russian writer, paints such a vivid picture of the village church in his story Viy that as I continued to read, I could almost smell the decaying woods, the grey incense smoke and the peeling resinous varnish on the pillars. It was in Diptyque L’Eau Trois—notwithstanding the creators’ intent to capture the aroma of Northern Greece—that I have found the scent of that forsaken church, haunting and intoxicating.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The newest fragrance from Diptyque, Eau de Lierre, convinced me that I have a while longer to wait for an intense green perfume as well for a Diptyque fragrance that can be compared in its originality to Eau Lente and Virgilio. Jardin Clos was disappointingly pale, Do Son was pretty, but not particularly outstanding. Tam Dao is probably my favorite out of the recent offerings; however, as much as I like its dry sandalwood accord, it is difficult to call it distinctive.

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Eau de Lierre is sheer, transparent and weightless. It reminds me of Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée and Philosykos. It has the same peppery driftwood note that appears in Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée, which is accented by the delicate greenness noticeable in Philosykos. However, while Andre Putnam Preparation elegantly unfolds into a composition marked by the melancholy simplicity, Eau de Lierre does not move beyond its initial gauzy prettiness. Then, like the evanescent spring beauty of cherry blossoms, Eau de Lierre vanishes leaving a musky trace behind.

Admittedly, I by far prefer the more vivid exploration of green notes in Chanel No. 19, Balmain Vent Vert (original), Balmain Ivoire and Diptyque’s own green perfection, Virgilio to anything that can be found in this new Diptyque fragrance. On the other hand, for those who like the subtlety of Diptyque Ofresia and Philosykos, the translucent green touch of Eau de Lierre might be perfect. And yet, I cannot but hope that the next Diptyque will break with their recent trend for subtle and pretty.

Eau de Lierre’s official launch is supposed to take place in May. Other Diptyque fragrances are availalbe at Aedes, Bigelow Chemists, Fourseasonsproducts, as well as Diptyque boutiques in Paris, London, Boston, and San Francisco.

Photo: Ivy, from iamtonyang.com/

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Since antiquity, the precious oil of sandalwood was sought after not only for its aroma, but also for its calming and restorative properties. Sandalwood would be ground into powders, macerated in oils for cosmetic preparations and made into pastes for incense sticks. Its oil would be co-distilled with various flowers and spices, producing fragrant attars. From the religious ceremonies to the beauty rituals, sandalwood and its scent are indelibly associated with the most intimate and spiritual of traditions in the East. Its rich fragrance envelops like an opulent silk wrap, clinging to the skin and melding with its warmth.

Yet, despite its popularity and uniqueness, sandalwood is a difficult note for the perfumer to employ, as its lack of a bright top note flattens a composition. Sandalwood dominated fragrances tend to be rich and heavy, as Guerlain Samsara with its 45% of sandalwood oil can demonstrate. Less successful compositions simply strike one as dense and opaque. In light of this fact, it is a pleasure to discover two fragrances that highlight the sandalwood without compromising its beauty. Diptyque Tam Dao and 10 Corso Como are often compared, however while they offer interpretations on the sandalwood theme, the results have sufficiently different nuances to consider exploring both fragrances. …

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