discontinued: 56 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s entry into the blossoming organic skincare market has resulted in Jatamansi, a line of body products based on the healing extract of the Himalayan nard plant. L’Eau de Jatamansi is a scented body mist, which is a part of the Jatamansi line. Opening up on a crisp brightness that alternates between the verdancy of fresh grass and the peppery warmth of sun parched herbs, L’Eau de Jatamansi never loses its subtle aura. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I have previously shared my excitement at discovering a lovely collection from Crazylibellule and The Poppies that not only offered an interesting and humorous range of fragrances, but also made it available at a fantastic price of $16 for a lipstick shaped tube of solid perfume. While Shanghaijava took us on a journey through Asia with its aromas of coconut, musk, incense and orchids, the newest collection Les Divines Alcoves is all about love. On the whole, this collection does not disappoint. Out of seven fragrances, I loved four (Tout Oublier for  its beautiful iris accord , Aux Anges for evoking the radiance of Diorissimo, Amoureuse for charming me with its lush rose and Dans Tes Bras for its rich warmth), found one pretty (musky Presque Nue) and only two were completely lacking in distinction (Le Baiser and Toi Mon Prince.) The compositions are even more sophisticated and elegant than those from The Shanghaijava Collection, with just enough whimsical elements to lend the collection a lighthearted spirit. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Whenever I hear that there are no creative fragrances in the mainstream market, I want to point to Kingdom (2003), a fascinating fragrance created by perfumer Jacques Cavallier for the enfant terrible of fashion, Alexander McQueen. The blatant sensuality of Kingdom mirrored the controversial and innovative approach to fashion developed by McQueen. Developed as a classical woody oriental composition—its luxurious dark woods cradled in the velvety foil of smoky resins a la Chanel Bois des Îles, Caron Nuit de Noël and Guerlain Samsara, Kingdom hides a raw and aggressive streak. The effect of this juxtaposition is exactly what makes grand French classics compelling—that reminder of human traces, of decay, of things that we try to hide. It is subtle enough to tease the senses without becoming repulsive, and yet, its presence is obvious. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The trend of bespoke perfumery which has been growing steadily over the past few years has never interested me much. After all, almost the entire classical Guerlain line feels as if it were custom made to reflect my taste, from the bittersweet beauty of Après l’Ondée to the windswept elegance of Sous Le Vent. Yet, if I were to name my ideal fragrance, it would be Hermès Doblis. Its soft and gilded presence is always perfect, notwithstanding my mood or the occasion for which it can be worn. The harmony of the composition is almost mesmerizing. From the camomile accented aldehydic top notes that brush like warm sand against the skin to the supple leather base, Doblis never loses its luminousity. If it were music, Doblis would be Beethoven’s Cello Suites. If it were a painting, Doblis would be Raphael’s Fornarina. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There is nothing better than to encounter a fragrance line that combines interesting scents with a sense of humor. Crazylibellule & The Poppies is the fragrance line established by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, the founder of Shop8 (which was renamed Sephora after being sold to LVMH). In collaboration with the perfumers of Givaudan, Masson-Mandonnaud has created a range of solid fragrances, priced democratically at $16 each and available in thematic sets. The Shanghaijava Collection includes 7 fragrances, which explore different ideas, from woods to flowers, and present rather fun and unexpected combinations. Encens Mystic takes one into the church during an evening mass. Ginger & Coconut teases with its mouthwatering coconut chutney scent. …

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