discontinued: 56 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

As much as I like Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances, from the vanilla turned into sultry darkness that is SacreBleu to the warm mulled wine tartness of Pour Homme, I have to admit that a few pose a frustrating dilemma—they smell far better on paper than they do on skin. The issue is not so much a matter of body chemistry, but rather that the warmth of the skin accelerates their development, forcing evaporation to occur quicker than one would have wished. My biggest disappointment of late is Mimosaïque—on the blotter, it opens up with a green milky almond tinged mimosa that recalls vintage Caron Farnesiana. On the skin, one enjoys fifteen minutes of mimosa glory before one is left with a sharp, thin musk redolent of inexpensive shampoo. The fact that the bottle resembles a hair care container does not help matters much. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The beauty of Slatkin Persian Lime Blossom & Mimosa lies as much in the perfection of the facets that come together to form this sunlit and vivid composition as in its unpredictable treatment of the floral theme. Unlike the more classical mimosa etudes a la L’Artisan Mimosa pour Moi and Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique, Persian Lime Blossom & Mimosa does not play up the powdered almond richness of the note. Instead, the perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, who created the fragrance for Slatkin & Company, turns the velvety softness of mimosa into the delicate precision of Venetian lace woven out of the golden threads. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Navegar is a scent of stones, shells and driftwood collected on the beach. The woody dryness almost makes me feel sand grains scratching my skin, and as the composition begins its panoramic unfolding, I notice a touch of salty freshness, which provides an interesting counterpoint to the spices and woods comprising this Olivia Giacobetti’s creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among Emporio Armani fragrances, White She (2001) stands out not only for its innovative composition, but also for its perfect synergy with the elegant, tailored look of Giorgio Armani couture and prêt-a-porter lines. A fashion house famous for its immaculate fit and expensive fabric made a great choice in selecting the fragrance that eventually became Emporio Armani White She (or White Elle). I prefer White She to all other Emporio Armani fragrances, including its masculine counterpart. In fact, although labeled She, the composition has an almost androgynous feel. The perfume conjures cool silks and hot ironed linens with its transparent freshness, which slips off slowly revealing a silvery woody accord.

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Estée Lauder Tom Ford Azurée is now available as Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess.

The vintage glamour seems to pervade the newest Tom Ford Collection for Estée Lauder, from the turquoise blue shades of the packaging to the smoky eye and pale lip color palette. Azurée was Estée Lauder’s fragrance created as a feminine answer to the virile leather chypre of Aramis. However, instead of treating leather in an assertive manner, Azurée was modulated by woods and rich floral notes. Its lilting name arose from combination of Estée Lauder’s name and Côte d’Azur. Pronounce Azurée slowly, and you can almost envision the blue sky falling into the glittering waters of the Mediterranean Sea. …

Continue reading →